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Pest-Resistant Natives by Russell Stafford

 

American gardeners who want to incorporate more native perennials into their plantings often come into conflict with two other native species: white-tailed deer and Eastern cottontail. Unlike many native plants, these vegetation-munching critters find suburban neighborhoods and other domesticated landscapes to be ideal “natural” habitats. This especially goes for one of their favorite suburban microhabitats – perennial plantings. What tastier delicacy than a lush phlox or coreopsis or other perennial favorite?

 

Rabbits and deer find some perennials to be anything but toothsome, however. Here are some to consider for your nibbler-infested garden. Most will remain largely unscathed even in areas with swarms of pests. The goldenrods are one exception, as they may be on the menu where herbivore pressure is intense.

 

Bee balm (Monarda spp.)

Deer and rabbits tend to steer clear of plants with strongly aromatic foliage. Consequently, many of the most pest-resistant perennials belong to the mint family – including everything in the genus Monarda. Best known to gardeners in the form of large 3-foot-plus hybrids such as brilliant red-flowered ‘Jacob Cline’ and purple-red ‘Raspberry Wine’, bee balms come in many other colors and sizes. One of the best is the Midwest native Bradbury’s bee balm (Monarda bradburiana). Its lilac-pink flowers open a month before the hybrids bloom, on 15-inch plants that clump rather than romp. The mildew-resistant foliage flushes deep bronze-purple in early spring. Similar in flower color but blooming a month later on 4-foot stems, wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) ranges over a wide area of eastern and central North America. It also spreads widely in any good garden soil. All of the above would appreciate a hit of Fafard Organic Compost, especially if your soil has lots of sand or clay. In contrast, horsemint (Monarda punctata) prefers garden conditions more akin to the dry, sandy habitats where it occurs naturally. It’s fascinating pink-collared whorls of yellow flowers attract numerous beneficial pollinators in summer, while its oregano-scented foliage repels herbivores. This spreading, 30-inch-tall, short-lived perennial is native to much of North America, from coast to coast.

Mountain mints (Pycnanthemum spp.) and anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)

We profiled these fragrant-leaved mint family members in May in an article on edible natives. Edible for humans, that is; for deer and rabbits, they’re just the opposite. One Agastache we didn’t profile last month – yellow giant hyssop (Agastache nepetoides) – is equally pest-resistant and pollinator-friendly. An architectural 4- to 6-foot perennial from eastern and central North America, it triggers a pollinator feeding frenzy with its summer spikes of small yellow flowers. They evolve to elongated dark-gray seedheads, which make an ornamental statement in fall and winter. Most Agastache are enthusiastic self-sowers, so be on the lookout for volunteer seedlings. Mountain mints also spread widely, by underground rhizomes and sometimes by seed.

Beardtongues (Penstemon spp.)

Beloved by hummingbirds and bumblebees, Penstemon are native exclusively to North America, in a wide range of regions and habitats. Deer and rabbits avoid all 250-plus members of the genus. Most Central and Eastern U.S. beardtongues (such as P. digitalis and P. smallii) produce spires of white or pink/purplish flowers on 2- to 4-foot stems in late spring or early summer. Western species flower in a much wider range of colors, including blue, red, and the occasional yellow. Unfortunately, Westerners are also typically mountain-dwellers that loathe heat and dampness. Exceptions such as violet-blue-flowered Penstemon strictus do just fine in the Eastern lowlands provided the soil isn’t too heavy or damp.

 

Bluestars (Amsonia spp.)

The handsome lance-shaped foliage of these stalwart perennials is seemingly immune from diseases and pests. Native mostly to the southeastern and central U.S., bluestars owe their common name to their clusters of narrow-petaled flowers that open in late spring or early summer. Until recently, Eastern bluestar (Amsonia tabernaemontana) – including its narrow-leaved and compact forms (salicifolia and montana) – was the most commonly grown species. That honor now surely belongs to threadleaf bluestar (A. hubrichtii), prized for its fine-textured, narrow foliage borne on dense 42-inch plants. Also worth growing, are other U.S. native amsonias including shining bluestar (A. illustris) and stiff bluestar (A. rigida). All of them turn eye-catching yellow shades in fall.

Goldenrods (Solidago spp. etc.)

Often dismissed wholesale as rampant weeds, goldenrods offer numerous well-behaved species in a diversity of shapes and sizes. They are also pest-resistant – although you can expect some damage in heavily browsed areas. Perhaps the most pest resistant of the tribe is sweet goldenrod (Solidago odora), whose anise-like fragrance and flavor is off-putting to bunnies and deer. Other noteworthy species include stiff goldenrod (S. rigida), which flaunts large, handsome, gray-green basal leaves and domed heads of yellow flowers; and showy goldenrod (S. speciosa), with arrestingly large panicles of golden yellow on statuesque stems. There is even a white-flowered species, silverrod (S. speciosa), also notable for the graceful form of its narrow upright inflorescences on 2-foot stems. These and other goldenrods are essential late-summer bloomers, attracting swarms of bumblebees and other pollinators. And no – they do not cause hay fever.

Bugbane (Actaea spp.)

Formerly known botanically as Cimicifuga, these pollinator favorites make excellent architectural subjects for partial shade. Northeast and Central U.S. native black bugbane (Actaea racemosa) forms large lacy clumps of divided leaves, topped by statuesque spires of frothy white flowers in midsummer. Appalachian bugbane (A. rubifolia) is bolder in texture, later in flower, and somewhat more compact in habit than black bugbane. Its dense white candelabras appear in late summer atop shrubby clumps of large maple-like leaves. Both species do best in good moderately moist soil, but Appalachian bugbane also thrives in somewhat drier sites.

Fernleaf bleeding heart (Dicentra spp.)

One of the few shade-loving perennials with season-long bloom, Dicentra eximia produces flushes of pink flowers from mid-spring through fall. Native to rocky woodland habitats in the mid-Atlantic and Southeast, it’s nearly identical with the Western U.S. native Dicentra formosa. Their charming blooms cluster above low clumps of ferny, often silver-tinged leaves, which are quite attractive in their own right. Hybrids between these species (including ‘Zestful and ‘Luxuriant’) also make outstanding and pest-resistant garden subjects.

 

About Russell Stafford

Hortiholic and plant evangelist, Russell Stafford, transplanted his first perennial at age 7 and thereby began a lifelong plant addiction. He is the founder and custodian of Odyssey Bulbs (and Odyssey Perennials), an online nursery specializing in cool and uncommon plants. Russell also works as a horticultural consultant, freelance writer (Horticulture and The American Gardener magazines), and garden editor. He formerly served as Curator and Head of Horticulture at Fernwood Botanic Garden in Niles, Michigan and as the Horticultural Program Coordinator at the Center for Plant Conservation, then located at the Arnold Arboretum in Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts. His academic degrees include a masters in forest science from Harvard University.

Tasty Native Perennials by Russell Stafford

 

You can have your native perennials AND eat them too. As exhibit A, we present the following toothsome perennial species from eastern and central North America. Adding zest both to ornamental plantings and to recipes, they’re a must for cutting-edge kitchen gardens – and kitchens.

Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)

Favorites of bees and hummingbirds, the lavender-blue, late-spring-to-fall flowers of this 3-foot Midwest and Plains native have a sweet anise-like flavor that also appeals to humans. So, too, do the leaves, which are good for mixing with the flowers as a salad garnish. You can use them in cooked dishes as well, where they work nicely as a counterpoint to acidic fruits and vegetables. Drought-tolerant and sun-loving, anise hyssop will tolerate some shade, flowering less prolifically there. Self-sowing is common, so be on the lookout for volunteers! It’s hardy from USDA Zones 3 to 8.

Sweet goldenrod (Solidago odora)

The tasseled yellow late-summer blooms and anise-like fragrance and flavor of sweet goldenrod make it a natural companion to anise hyssop, both in borders and in dishes. Sprinkle a mélange of their flowers on salads for a bracing hit of flavor and color, or add the leaves to tea. At around 20 inches tall, this clumping goldenrod plays nicely in sunny wildflower plantings and cottage gardens, functioning well as a foreground plant. It does well in medium to dry soil in zones 3 to 9 – a wide hardiness range that reflects its Southeast Canada to Texas native range.

Aniseroot (Osmorhiza longistylis)

The scent and flavor of anise make yet another guest appearance in this widespread North American woodlander (native from the East Coast to the Rockies). From its fleshy roots to its ferny leaves to its lacey white late-spring flowers to the seeds that follow, it is excellent for flavoring salads and cooked dishes and for brewing into teas. Aniseroot looks well in naturalistic shaded borders and cottage gardens in zones 2 to 9. It likes humus-rich soil, so an application of Fafard® Premium Natural & Organic Compost is helpful in sandy or clay-heavy sites. Its close cousin Osmorhiza claytonii is hairier, fewer-flowered, and much less aromatic.

Mountan mint (Pycnanthemum spp.)

Members of the mint family, pycnanthemums all possess the scent, flavor, and romping habit characteristic of their tribe. As ornamental plants, they’re perfect for naturalistic borders, where their colonizing habit and white to purplish summer blooms provide an effective foil to showy-flowered summer perennials such as coneflowers (Rudbeckia) and blazing stars (Liatris). Ornamentally, mountain mints come in two different general types. Species such as hoary mountain mint (P. incanum) and silver mountain mint (P. muticum) have oval leaves with petal-like silver-gray bracts that surround the small clusters of pink or white flowers. Other species (including Virginia mountain mint, P. virginianum) bear narrow, almost needle-like leaves and somewhat larger flower clusters, with no flower bracts. All pycnanthemums can be used in the kitchen to add minty highlights to salads, cooked dishes, teas, and jellies. Broader-leaved species tend to be mintier in flavor than the needle-leaved types.

Ramps (Allium tricoccum)

The pungent garlicky leaves of this woodland onion have been a staple of “ramps festivals” and other springtime culinary traditions throughout its native range of eastern and central North America. Unfortunately, this has resulted in over-collection from the wild in many areas, resulting in reduced populations. With a bit of patience, you can grow it for eventual harvest in whatever shady, humus-rich habitats your yard has to offer (you will need several years to achieve a substantial clump). Fortunately, a little ramps goes a long way. Harvest a leaf (or two) with its underlying bulb in spring before the foliage goes dormant, and you will have enough to flavor a good-sized omelet. Then leave your clump alone for another year. Clusters of whitish flowers appear in early summer after the leaves disappear – an echo of spring’s bounty.

Sochan (Rudbeckia lacniata)

Highly ornamental when they form bold jagged clumps in summer and fall, the leaves and shoots of this eastern and central North American native make for a tasty treat while young and tender in spring. Use them in stir-fries, where they will contribute a distinct flavor somewhat reminiscent of celery. Older leaves and stems require more careful handling. As an ornamental, Rudbeckia laciniata peaks in late summer, displaying yellow green-centered coneflowers atop lofty stems. Plants succeed in moist to average soil over a wide hardiness range (2 to 9).

Scots lovage (Ligusticum scoticum)

Another outstanding ornamental perennial with celery-like flavor, Scot’s lovage occurs on beaches and other coastal habitats throughout much of the temperate Northern Hemisphere. The lush compound leaves even have something of a celery look, although on a much handsomer plane. Flat lacy white umbels appear on 18-inch stems in late spring and summer, confirming this perennial’s membership is in the parsley family. As with the leaves, the flowers are edible (as are the seeds that follow). The flavor can be strong, so use Scot’s lovage sparingly at first. It does well in average as well as sandy soil, in sunny to lightly shaded garden habitats from zones 3 to 7.

Additionally, ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris), with its eminently friable fiddleheads; sunchoke (Helianthus tuberosus), with its tasty tubers; and quite a few other native perennials also are excellent both for display and for eating.  All of the above are things to keep in mind when you’re planning your ornamental and kitchen plantings.

 

 

 

About Russell Stafford

Hortiholic and plant evangelist, Russell Stafford, transplanted his first perennial at age 7 and thereby began a lifelong plant addiction. He is the founder and custodian of Odyssey Bulbs (and Odyssey Perennials), an online nursery specializing in cool and uncommon plants. Russell also works as a horticultural consultant, freelance writer (Horticulture and The American Gardener magazines), and garden editor. He formerly served as Curator and Head of Horticulture at Fernwood Botanic Garden in Niles, Michigan and as the Horticultural Program Coordinator at the Center for Plant Conservation, then located at the Arnold Arboretum in Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts. His academic degrees include a masters in forest science from Harvard University.

Eye Zone Roses by Elisabeth Ginsburg

For garden lovers, the landscape is full of “eyes”–bi-colored flowers with petals that include a central “eye” or ring that contrasts with the main flower color. Members of the mallow family, like hollyhocks and rose-of-Sharon have them, but garden roses usually do not. Now plant breeders have changed all that and the eyes have it among rose fanciers.

The genes for the rose “eye zone” trait came from a plant known—depending on the sources– botanically as Rosa persica, Hulthemia persica or Hulthemia berberifolia.  Whatever you call it, the important thing to remember is that hulthemia, a plant native to eastern Iran and surrounding areas, is a thorny, scraggly shrub that sports bright yellow flowers with unusual red centers.  It blooms in summer and is well adapted to its native hot, dry climate.  It is clearly related to the genus Rosa, home of true roses, but lacks some rose characteristics.

photo by Proven Winners® Ringo All-Star™

Hulthemia might still be an obscure plant, if not for those “eyes”, which have entranced breeders for years, inspiring them to cross hulthemia with garden rose varieties to produced offspring with eyes.  Some of the first matchmaking attempts were made by Englishman Jack Harkness, who bred roses for his family’s firm from 1964 until his death in 1994. Obtaining hulthemia seeds, Harkness worked to breed reblooming rose varieties that had the characteristic hulthemia appearance. Harkness eventually  introduced four hulthemia/rose varieties: ‘Euphrates,’ ‘Tigris,’ ‘Nigel Hawthorne’ and ‘Xerxes.’  Unfortunately, none were reliable rebloomers and only ‘Tigris’ produced viable seed for future crosses. The matchmaking efforts continued, with further crosses made by Harkness and other breeders in England and America, including Ralph Moore, a Californian best known for his miniature roses.

Photo by Elisabeth Ginsburg

In a 2007 article, an American rose breeder named James A. Sproul of Bakersfield, California, wrote about the hulthemia breeding process.  According to Sproul, the genes that produce the characteristic “eyes” seem to be linked to genes for non-repeat blooming.  The majority of modern rose buyers look for roses that rebloom reliably, which made  hulthemia breeding an even greater challenge.

In his article, Sproul predicted that either the Harkness firm or one of several other breeders would create a hulthemia breakthrough and have a reblooming rose with eyes ready for introduction within five years.  Sproul then went ahead and did it himself, introducing his trademarked “Eyeconic” series, beginning with ‘Lemonade’ and ‘Pink Lemonade’ in 2011.

The Eyeconic series has since expanded to include delectable-sounding varieties like ‘Lychee Lemonade’, ‘Mango Lemonade’: ‘Plum Lemonade’, ‘Melon Lemonade’ and ‘Pomegranate Lemonade.’  In all cases, the fruit designation refers to the base petal color.  All feature darker central “eyes”.  The “Eyeconic” shrubs are medium size bushes, growing to around four feet tall, with semi-double flowers bearing eight to ten petals apiece.  All are repeat bloomers and all are striking plants.

Once breeders like Sproul figured out the reblooming equation, more “eye zone” roses came to market, including ‘Ringo’, a cream to yellow single rose with and orange-red eye.  Most are now characterized as “hybrid Hulthemia” roses, because of their mixed genetic heritage.

In 2019, American rose breeder Tom Carruth introduced ‘In Your Eyes’, a repeat-blooming hulthemia hybrid that can grow up to six feet tall.  It bears colorful flowers that open with cream or creamy yellow petals surrounding a red eye.  As the petals age, they take on a lavender cast and the eye darkens.  With multiple buds opening at different times on a single mature bush, the effect is  dramatic.

The hybrid hulthemias, with their heritage of heat tolerance, are useful in areas where summers can be torrid.  Like other roses, they flourish in spots that get at least six hours of sunshine each day, and appreciate the addition of a high –quality soil amendment like Fafard® Premium Natural and Organic Compost Blend at planting time. To curb the tendency to legginess, cut back by one third after each flush of bloom.

Going forward, we will certainly see more trademarked lines of “eye zone” roses.  Right now, most produce single or semi-double flowers to allow maximum exposure for the central eye. Rise Up ‘Ringo’ is a recent entry in the field with an array of fluffy yellow petals, red central eyes, and a climbing habit.  Still to come–similar roses with  more petals and/or more compact habits.  Fragrance is not a strong feature, so hybridizers are almost undoubtedly working to breed that trait back into future introductions.

Major plant producers like Proven Winners® have jumped on the eye zone bandwagon.  Various varieties should be widely available through local garden retailers.

About Elisabeth Ginsburg

Born into a gardening family, Elisabeth Ginsburg grew her first plants, a healthy stand of Hollyhocks, as a young child. Her hands-on experiences range from container gardening on a Missouri balcony to mixed borders in the New Jersey suburbs and vacation gardening in Central New York State. She has studied horticulture at the New York Botanical Garden and elsewhere and has also written about gardens, landscape history and ecology for years in traditional and online publications including The New York Times Sunday “Cuttings” column, the Times Regional Weeklies, Horticulture, Garden Design, Flower & Garden, The Christian Science Monitor and many others. Her “Gardener’s Apprentice” weekly column appears in papers belonging to the Worrall chain of suburban northern and central New Jersey weekly newspapers and online at http://www.gardenersapprentice.com. She and her feline Saki. “garden supervisor” live in northern New Jersey.

Beyond Forsythia by Russell Stafford

Forsythias are not the only shrubs that bloom bright yellow early in the year, despite being the only ones you’re likely see in your neighborhood or at your local garden center. Indeed, they are far from the earliest – or the best—such shrubs. Several other hardy shrub species not only produce sunny yellow flowers weeks or months before forsythias blossom, but also offer ornamental interest post-bloom (rather than reverting to an anonymous tangle of suckering stems, as forsythias do). Yet, because they flower before the gardening season is in full swing and are harder to propagate than forsythias, these superior alternatives are far less known in nurseries and gardens.

 

If you’ve ever puzzled over a “forsythia” that’s in full bloom in midwinter, chances are it’s actually a hybrid of Chinese witch-hazel (Hamamelis × intermedia). The earliest varieties open their ribbony blooms during mild weather in February or even January in zones 6 and warmer. These large, often V-shaped shrubs usually flower in yellow, but some varieties delve into redder parts of the spectrum. Numerous hybrid witch-hazel cultivars are available from a handful of gourmet mail-order nurseries, and all are worth trying. You’ll do just fine though with the relatively common ‘Arnold Promise’, which produces abundant golden-yellow flowers rather late in the witch-hazel season (February to March). One of the best of the non-yellow cultivars is the paprika-red ‘Diane’, which glows especially warmly when backlit by the winter sun. All witch-hazel flowers possess a delightful citrusy perfume, which carries on whatever mild breezes might be wafting. Their broad, bluntly toothed leaves go yellow or orange in fall.

Offering rather smaller flowers than the Asian hybrids is the U.S. native Hamamelis vernalis, commonly known as Ozark witch-hazel. The yellow to violet blooms open as early as December, on densely branched plants that top out at 8 feet or so, rather than the 10-feet-plus of most Asian witch-hazel varieties. Ozark witch-hazel thus makes a splendid choice for hedging (unlike an unruly Forsythia!). For smaller gardens there’s the cultivar ‘Quasimodo’, which matures at around 5 feet tall and wide.

 

Then there’s the most widespread U.S.-native witch-hazel, Hamamelis virginiana. A fall-bloomer, it’s outside the scope of this article, but well worth incorporating in your garden. Most witch-hazels are hardy to USDA Zone 5.

 

As their common name suggests, winter-hazels (Corylopsis) resemble witch-hazels in several respects, particularly in the shape of their handsome foliage. This is not surprising, given that they’re also members of the witch-hazel family. Most mature as large shrubs of 8 to 10 feet or more, which dangle chains of yellow flowers from their branches a couple weeks before forsythias bloom. Buttercup winter-hazel (Corylopsis pauciflora), however, grows more compactly, forming tightly thicketing clumps of 4- to 6-foot tall stems. They’re elegantly adorned in late winter with clusters of sulfur-yellow blooms, with the leaves turning similar pale yellow hues in fall. This first-rate shrub is one of the most desirable subjects for USDA Zone 5b to 8 gardens, as is its hybrid ‘Winterthur’. Give your winter-hazel a site sheltered from hot sun and northwest winds, with an occasional top-dressing of Fafard Organic Compost to keep it extra-happy. They’re hardy to milder sectors of Zone 5.

Another group of shrubs with very early blooms are the cornelian cherries, best known in gardens in the form of Cornus mas. Maturing at 12 or more feet tall, this Zone-5-hardy member of the dogwood tribe also can be grown as a multitrunked small tree. Clouds of small citron-yellow flowers open in late winter, well before the oval leaves emerge. Tart fruits that resemble cranberries ripen in late summer, making a valuable contribution to the edible garden. Cultivars such as ‘Pioneer’ produce even larger fruits than standard-issue Cornus mas. Fall foliage is often a good burgundy-red on most varieties.

Blooming slightly earlier on similarly sized (but slightly less cold-hardy) plants is Japanese cornel, Cornus officinalis. Its early bloom time and attractively exfoliating bark mark it as arguably a superior ornamental plant to Cornus mas, but it is far less common in horticulture. As with all of the above, it is well worth searching out if, you have a place for it.

About Russell Stafford

Hortiholic and plant evangelist, Russell Stafford, transplanted his first perennial at age 7 and thereby began a lifelong plant addiction. He is the founder and custodian of Odyssey Bulbs (and Odyssey Perennials), an online nursery specializing in cool and uncommon plants. Russell also works as a horticultural consultant, freelance writer (Horticulture and The American Gardener magazines), and garden editor. He formerly served as Curator and Head of Horticulture at Fernwood Botanic Garden in Niles, Michigan and as the Horticultural Program Coordinator at the Center for Plant Conservation, then located at the Arnold Arboretum in Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts. His academic degrees include a masters in forest science from Harvard University.

Flowering Quince by Elisabeth Ginsburg

Every year I glory in the first signs of spring—snowdrops, crocuses, early daffodils and grape hyacinths.  But the big show really takes off when the swollen buds on the old flowering quince start popping open, revealing joyful, pinky-white blossoms that cover the shrub in a foamy cascade.

The flowers are reminiscent of apple blossoms, which is no coincidence, since quinces and apples both belong to the larger Rosaceae or rose family.

Flowering quince—Chaenomeles japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa and hybrids—have been enchanting us for a long time.  The japonica species was introduced to the United States from Asia in 1784, and the speciosa quinces arrived in 1815.  They caught on quickly.  For some time flowering quince was known as Pyrus japonica, a nod to the pear tree, also loved for its flowers, and known to its botanist friends by the species name Pyrus.

photo by Elisabeth Ginsburg

Japanese quince has many virtues, including vivid red-orange spring flowers, attractive ovoid leaves, and a relatively low-growing habit (two to three feet tall, and three to six feet wide).  Densely branched, it also sports a highly effective system of defenses, in the form of inch-long spines.  Harvesting branches for indoor display is a time-honored spring tradition, but requires sturdy gloves and a bit of caution.

The spiny trait is shared by the glorious Chaenomeles speciosa, a flowering quince native to parts of China, Tibet and Myanmar.  It is larger than the speciosa type, growing six to ten feet tall and wide.  The flowers are more red than orange and also open in the spring.

Orange and orange-red flowered quinces are show-stopping, but varieties with less flamboyant flower colors are also available.  I love the old-fashioned hybrid, ‘Cameo’, with soft peach blooms and characteristic glossy green leaves on three to four-foot shrubs.  The flowers are especially beautiful with the spring sunlight shining through them.  If you are partial to white blooms, try ‘Jet Trail’, a somewhat smaller variety (three to four-foot height and spread) with single white petals surrounding golden stamens.

photo by Elisabeth Ginsburg

So what should you do if you covet the beauties of flowering quince but hesitate at the threat of thorns?  Hybridizers have thought of that, crossing and back-crossing speciosa and japonica varieties to produce thornless cultivars like the trademarked Double Take series, speciosas hybridized by Dr. Thomas Ranney at North Carolina State University Extension Center.  The color range includes  ‘Double Take Scarlet’, ‘Double Take Orange’, ‘Double Take Peach’ and ‘Double Take Eternal White’.

Confusion can ensue when gardeners compare traditional flowering quinces against those of common quince (Cydonia oblonga) native to parts of Eurasia, which bears white or pink flowers. Common quince is grown primarily for its edible pear-like fruit, while the flowering species and hybrids, which may also bear somewhat smaller quantities of fruit, are grown almost exclusively for their ornamental value.  Ripe quince fruits from either type of shrub exude an intoxicating fragrance, but cannot be eaten out of hand.  Hard and sour when harvested, quince can be cooked down with a bit of sugar to make a lovely sauce or thickened further into membrillo (also known as quince paste or quince cheese) that is tasty when paired with cheese.

If you don’t want to worry about rock-hard quinces falling from your shrubs, opt for the Double Take varieties, which are both spineless and fruit-free.

Flowering quinces  have long been prized as landscape shrubs. Twentieth century gardener and garden writer, Vita Sackville-West, co-creator of the great gardens at Sissinghurst in Kent, England, mentioned them many times in her garden columns for the Observer newspaper.  She recommended using quince bushes en masse for flowering hedges.  Needless to say, those hedges would be especially effective for use on property boundaries.

The shrubs can also be grown as specimen plants or incorporated into a mixed annual, perennial and shrub border.  They appreciate the same conditions as other members of the rose family—full sun and rich, loamy soil, but can also adapt to light shade.  Like many beautiful things, they tend to grow in an undisciplined manner.  Prune after flowering to shape the plant and watch for root suckers.  These are easy to remove, but if left unchecked will begin the process of turning your single quince into a quince thicket.

photo by Elisabeth Ginsburg

Glorious spring beauty is the best reason to invest in flowering quince.  Don’t be intimidated by the spines.  For centuries gardeners have grown all kinds of spiny things, including raspberries, barberries, cacti and holly, and managed, using a combination of gloves and caution, to enjoy them without drawing blood.

About Elisabeth Ginsburg

Born into a gardening family, Elisabeth Ginsburg grew her first plants, a healthy stand of Hollyhocks, as a young child. Her hands-on experiences range from container gardening on a Missouri balcony to mixed borders in the New Jersey suburbs and vacation gardening in Central New York State. She has studied horticulture at the New York Botanical Garden and elsewhere and has also written about gardens, landscape history and ecology for years in traditional and online publications including The New York Times Sunday “Cuttings” column, the Times Regional Weeklies, Horticulture, Garden Design, Flower & Garden, The Christian Science Monitor and many others. Her “Gardener’s Apprentice” weekly column appears in papers belonging to the Worrall chain of suburban northern and central New Jersey weekly newspapers and online at http://www.gardenersapprentice.com. She and her feline Saki. “garden supervisor” live in northern New Jersey.

Irish Plants by Elisabeth Ginsburg

St. Patrick’s Day falls every year on March 17.  In some places spring has already sprung by mid-March, in others it is still weeks away.  But regardless of how green your garden is on March 17, the whole world will turn green—at least temporarily–in celebration of all things Irish.

It is a good time to think of plants with Irish associations that might make good additions to your beds, borders, containers and window boxes.  Some, like shamrocks come to mind immediately, but others like common foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) have equal claim to Irish origins.  As you plan for spring planting, think about adding a little Irish magic.

Shamrocks: What’s in a Name?

Around St. Patrick’s Day, large and small merchandisers sell pots of “shamrocks” with either green or purple leaves.  They are lovely and decorative, but they are not Irish.  Usually the little plants are  species and varieties of oxalis, a plant that originated in Central and South America.

For real shamrocks, you need to lay hands on either white clover (Trifolium repens) or yellow clover (Trifolium dubium), both of which are native to Ireland.

White clover, as many gardeners will attest, grows readily in gardens, lawns and many other situations. Some consider it a weed, but it also makes an excellent ground cover.  If you fear that your clover will overwhelm better-mannered garden plants, grow it in a pot.  Clover loves full sun, good soil and consistent moisture, but will prevail even in less optimal conditions.  The plants pull their weight in the garden by fixing nitrogen in the soil and attracting pollinators.

Fairy Thimbles

Whether you call these beautiful plants “foxglove” or “fairy thimbles”, they are Irish natives.  Resistant to critters but attractive to humans and pollinators, foxglove can thrive in partial shade with consistent moisture, producing statuesque spires that rise between two and five feet.

The plants, which are also native to other parts of western, southern and central Europe, are biennial, meaning that when grown from seed they form a basal rosette of leaves the first year and flower the second year.  Happy foxgloves are also prolific self-seeders.  If you do not remove all the spent flower stalks when they finish their late spring bloom period, foxgloves will make themselves effectively perennial by producing numerous offspring.  Flower colors in the species are usually shades of purple, pink or white.  Pollinators adore them and it is fun to watch fuzzy bumblebees crawling into the tubular blooms.

Moss of the Irish

Great as a ground cover, rock garden subject, or moss garden component, Irish moss (Sagina subulata) is truly Irish, but not a true moss.  Instead it is a low-growing evergreen member of the carnation family.  Topping out at about two inches tall, it grows slowly, eventually spreading to about twelve inches.  The plants are relatively easy-going, but benefit from the addition of a good soil amendment like Fafard® Premium Natural & Organic Compost at planting time. Irish moss thrives in a variety of conditions, but sulks in hot, dry weather, which will cause it to turn brown.  Supplemental water is a must, especially in drought periods.  Browning may also happen in the winter, but plants will generally rebound with new growth when spring arrives.

Though not prized for its flowers, Irish moss does produce small white blooms in late spring or early summer.  This is especially nice for containerized plants, which should be grown in wide, shallow vessels.  Depending on climate and site, containers may need winter protection.

Some Like it Wet

Native to both northern North America and northern Europe, including Ireland, bog rosemary (Andromeda polifolia) is unrelated to culinary rosemary, but bears narrow, blue-green leaves that are reminiscent of the herb. That foliage is evergreen and borne on small, shrubby plants.  Like other members of the Ericaceae or heath family, including blueberries, bog rosemary is eminently ornamental.  In May lovely, small, bell-shaped flowers appear clad in white, edged in pink clustering in umbels of up to eight blooms. The plants grow as tall as two feet, with a spread of up to three feet.

True to its name and heritage, bog rosemary prefers acidic soil and wet, cool conditions, like those found in Irish peat bogs.  It can be grown equally well in-ground or in containers.  Dry summers and dry soil are the enemies, but under the right conditions, bog rosemary is highly decorative along paths or towards the front of borders.  Unlike its herbal namesake, all parts are poisonous.

‘Empress of Ireland’ and More

Only one species of narcissus or daffodil is native to the British Isles, but a good number of daffodils were bred there.  Ireland was home to some of the best, because of breeder Guy Wilson, who created, among many lovely varieties, including the eponymous, white-flowered ‘Empress of Ireland’.

Born in County Antrim, Northern Ireland,  Wilson, the son of a manufacturer,  produced his first crop of blooming seedlings in 1912, when he was twenty-seven.  Specializing in white flowers, he went on to introduce 78 white-flowered daffodils with names like ‘Broughshane’ (in honor of his hometown),  ‘Cantatrice” and ‘Rose of May’.  A number of Wilson’s plants are still available from specialty merchandisers, and might even bloom on or close to St. Patrick’s Day.

 

About Elisabeth Ginsburg

Born into a gardening family, Elisabeth Ginsburg grew her first plants, a healthy stand of Hollyhocks, as a young child. Her hands-on experiences range from container gardening on a Missouri balcony to mixed borders in the New Jersey suburbs and vacation gardening in Central New York State. She has studied horticulture at the New York Botanical Garden and elsewhere and has also written about gardens, landscape history and ecology for years in traditional and online publications including The New York Times Sunday “Cuttings” column, the Times Regional Weeklies, Horticulture, Garden Design, Flower & Garden, The Christian Science Monitor and many others. Her “Gardener’s Apprentice” weekly column appears in papers belonging to the Worrall chain of suburban northern and central New Jersey weekly newspapers and online at http://www.gardenersapprentice.com. She and her feline Saki. “garden supervisor” live in northern New Jersey.

Best Indoor Plant Gifts for Valentine’s Day by Elisabeth Ginsburg

The number of houseplant lovers has risen by leaps and bounds in recent years.  If someone you care for is among them, consider giving a houseplant for Valentine’s Day.  There are many that fit the holiday theme nicely.  All are guaranteed to last longer than cut flowers and, unlike chocolate, will not automatically adhere to the recipient’s hips.

The plants below are some of the best choices for Valentine’s giving:

Heart on Your Leaves

 Anthurium (Anthurium sp.), sometimes known as “flamingo plant” or “flamingo lily” is native to Central and South American and is only hardy in USDA plant hardiness Zones 11 and 12.  Fortunately, it will get along quite nicely in average living spaces.  What makes anthurium perfect for V Day are the long-lasting “flowers” which are really red (or sometimes pink or white) heart-shaped spathes, surrounding smaller true flowers and a central staminal column.  The large, glossy green leaves are also heart-shaped and are attractive even after the flowers have faded.

Anthuriums like drainage, so when potting or repotting, add a layer of gravel to the bottom of the container, and fill with a quality potting compound like Fafard Natural and Organic Potting Mix.  Position the container in a spot with bright light and make sure the plant receives consistent moisture.  The plants can vacation outside in a lightly shaded spot when night temperatures are reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Heart Leaf Philodendron (Philodendron scandens, sometimes known as Philodendron hederaceum) is just what the name suggests—a houseplant with heart-shaped leaves.  With its long, vining stems, philodendron is a natural for hanging baskets or containers positioned on pedestals.  Like anthuriums, philodendrons are Central and South American natives that cannot survive outdoors in cold winter climates.  The plants grow in dappled shade in their native areas, so available light in most homes suits them just fine.  Watering is easy—just wait until the surface of the soil feels dry and then water thoroughly.  Feed with houseplant fertilizer according to manufacturer’s directions.

For a more adventurous Valentine’s Day gift, seek out a variegated variety, like ‘Silver Stripe’, with a lighter green stripe down the middle of each leaf, or ‘Lemon Lime’, with bright chartreuse foliage.

Philodendrons have only one downside—ingestion of any part of the plant is toxic to humans and animals, so position the plant so it is inaccessible to household inhabitants who might be likely to sample the leaves.

Take a fancy to these leaves

Rex Begonias: Whether you call them “rex begonias” or “painted leaf begonias”, these hybrid beauties, officially known as Begonia rex, are easy to grow and even easier on the eyes. They make excellent Valentine’s day gifts.  Unlike other begonia species, Rexes are grown primarily for their gorgeous foliage.  Some of the leaves are heart-shaped, while others are intricately lobed or swirled like snail shells.  “Painted leaf” is a perfect descriptor–the leaves are often bi- or tri-colored, streaked, swirled or edged in shades of green, silver, red, purple, or maroon, often with contrasting veins.

Growing only 12 to 14 inches tall, Rexes like a sunny windowsill. Water only when the soil surface is dry (watering around the edges of the pot helps prevent root rot).  Standing the container atop a layer of pebbles in a water-filled tray ensures that the plants get the humidity they enjoy.  Growth slows down a bit in the winter, but that should not cause discouragement.

Available varieties abound, with flashy specimens like ‘China Curl’, with a broad silver swirl accenting each leaf’s center and edging of darkest maroon; and ‘Paso Doble’, with spiraling leaves of rose and bright green.  Begonia leaves are also harmful to children and pets.

The wonder of Orchids

Orchids have long been considered among the most romantic plants.  Tissue culture, which allows growers to propagate large numbers of plants from small tissue samples, has made these exotic-looking bloomers—at least some of them–attainable for non-millionaires. Probably the easiest to grow and the most reasonably priced is the moth orchid (Phalaenopsis), with its pristine blossoms.  White is the most common color, but hybridizers have been busy producing “moths” in red, yellow, peach, cream and related shades.  Some sport attractive “freckles” as well.  Buy the orchids either in flower or budded.  Blooms will sometimes last up to three months.

Breeders work constantly to produce new hybrids, and the so-called “Rlc” orchids (Rhyncholaeliocattleya hybrids) are the happy and colorful result of crosses involving at least three species.  More costly than moth orchids, the Rlc’s boast ease of care, vibrant colors and even fragrance.  With large, frilly flowers, they are living corsages that will remain in flower for up to three weeks and may bloom more than once a year.

Orchids have sometimes been portrayed as fussy plants that need lots of coddling.  Some species might, but all the moth and Rlc orchids really want is the indirect light of an east or west-facing window, and the humid environment provided by a room humidifier or a tray filled with pebbles and water.  A porous growing medium is a good idea, as is an unglazed clay or terra cotta pot. If the plant arrives crammed into a plastic pot filled with ordinary potting soil, wait until the flowers fade and repot appropriately. Water only when the soil is quite dry.  When in doubt, check the exposed roots. Plump roots indicate the orchid’s water needs have been met.  When the plant is in active growth (forming new leaves and flower buds), feed with an orchid-specific fertilizer according to manufacturer’s directions.

About Elisabeth Ginsburg

Born into a gardening family, Elisabeth Ginsburg grew her first plants, a healthy stand of Hollyhocks, as a young child. Her hands-on experiences range from container gardening on a Missouri balcony to mixed borders in the New Jersey suburbs and vacation gardening in Central New York State. She has studied horticulture at the New York Botanical Garden and elsewhere and has also written about gardens, landscape history and ecology for years in traditional and online publications including The New York Times Sunday “Cuttings” column, the Times Regional Weeklies, Horticulture, Garden Design, Flower & Garden, The Christian Science Monitor and many others. Her “Gardener’s Apprentice” weekly column appears in papers belonging to the Worrall chain of suburban northern and central New Jersey weekly newspapers and online at http://www.gardenersapprentice.com. She and her feline Saki. “garden supervisor” live in northern New Jersey.

Succulents for Shade by Russell Stafford

 

Succulents are not just for sun. In fact, some of the most fascinating of these arid-habitat plants thrive in shade.

One shade-loving succulent that is familiar to anyone who has dabbled in houseplants is the western African native Sansevieria trifasciata, commonly known as snake plant. Especially well known is the variety ‘Laurentii’, with strap-shaped, 2- to 3-foot-tall leaves edged in gold. This and most of the other 60-plus cultivated varieties of Sansevieria trifasciata also feature striking horizontal banding on their thick leathery leaves, typically in alternating stripes of silver and dark green. Silver markings are strongest on varieties grown in a bit of sun, with plants becoming more uniformly green as shade levels increase.

The variety ‘Futura Superba’ much resembles ‘Laurentii’ in its coloration, but with shorter, broader leaves. Numerous other snake plant varieties come in the ‘Laurentii’ shape, including the pure silver-leaved ‘Moonshine’.

Shorter still are so-called birds-nest varieties of snake plant. These form tight low rosettes of tongue-shaped leaves, typically with silver banding (as in the popular ‘Hahnii’). The variety ‘Golden Hahnii’ adds pale-yellow leaf margins to the color scheme, while in ‘Silver Hahnii’ the leaves are nearly pure silvery gray. Other birds-nest varieties such as ‘Black Jade’ have gone to the dark side, with hues of deep green dominating their foliage. As with just about all forms of the species, birds-nest snake plants produce offspring via underground rhizomes, so there are always pups to share with friends.

Interestingly, most shade-loving succulent houseplants come from southern portions of Africa. One such species is another all-time favorite, jade plant (Crassula ovata). It slowly forms a loosely branched, rubbery-stemmed shrub, set with fleshy oval leaves that develop red-tinged margins in sun. Sunlight also often coaxes plants into bloom, with little white starry flowers clustering along the branches in winter, spring, or sometimes other seasons. However, this durable, long-lived species will also do just fine with no direct sunlight, succeeding (albeit rather gauntly) even in rather deep shade.

Jade plant is available in numerous forms, including dwarf cultivars such as ‘Baby Jade’. The Tolkien Group of jades comprises several varieties whose leaves are curled lengthwise into tubes, with cupped tips in the case of ‘Gollum’. The cultivar ‘ET’s Fingers’ is similar to ‘Gollum’, but with red-tinged leaf tips.

Native mostly to crevices and slopes of South Africa and Namibia, the 25 or so species in the genus Gasteria resemble miniature aloes, with low rosettes of small swollen triangular or tongue-shaped leaves arrayed in opposite pairs or in symmetrical whorls. The leaves typically are dotted with white waxy protuberances, and often tipped with a short spine. Plants may produce spikes of small, tubby or tubular, often brightly colored flowers, usually in winter or spring. Hybrids between Gasteria and Aloe sometimes occur in cultivation, including ‘Tarantula’, whose leaves are covered with small, white, almost hair-like spines.

Closely related to Gasteria is the larger and more diverse Haworthia, encompassing some 60 species from far-southern Africa. Their architecturally rosetted leaves come in a variety of shapes. Some such as Haworthia attenuata have narrowly triangular, white-dotted, gasteria-like foliage. Others (e.g., Haworthia retusa) bear remarkably mineral-like clusters of geometrical, crystal-shaped leaves. Another sub-group produces tight lines of flat-topped, abruptly truncated leaves that have a sawed-off appearance (these include the aptly named Haworthia truncata). Starfish-like and spherical leaf configurations also occur, as do tiered multilevel rosettes.

Haworthias are interesting rather than showy in bloom, with spikes of small white funneled flowers on relatively tall lanky stems in summer or sometimes winter.

The South African native silver squill (Ledebouria socialis) is yet another excellent subject for shaded niches. To call it a “succulent” is a bit of a stretch, but with its leathery, lance-shaped, near-evergreen leaves and drought-tolerance, it works well as an honorary member of the succulent tribe. The rosettes of erect, silvery, dark-green-dappled leaves emerge atop conical, red-skinned bulbs that are ornamental in their own right. Small-cupped pale-lilac flowers cluster atop short stems from winter into spring. Silver squill likes to grow with its bulbs mostly exposed above soil level, which adds to its unique charm.

You may have shade, but you can still have succulents! Plant the above succulents in two parts Fafard® Professional Potting Mix to one part perlite or grit. Use terracotta and do not overpot. Water only when the soil is dry, about every week or two. In addition, enjoy!

 

About Russell Stafford

Hortiholic and plant evangelist, Russell Stafford, transplanted his first perennial at age 7 and thereby began a lifelong plant addiction. He is the founder and custodian of Odyssey Bulbs (and Odyssey Perennials), an online nursery specializing in cool and uncommon plants. Russell also works as a horticultural consultant, freelance writer (Horticulture and The American Gardener magazines), and garden editor. He formerly served as Curator and Head of Horticulture at Fernwood Botanic Garden in Niles, Michigan and as the Horticultural Program Coordinator at the Center for Plant Conservation, then located at the Arnold Arboretum in Jamaica Plain, Massachusetts. His academic degrees include a masters in forest science from Harvard University.

Wise Buying for the New Growing Season

Start Your Plant Orders: Wise Buying for the New Growing Season

 

The holidays are over and the new gardening season has begun.  Non-gardeners may ask, “How can anyone grow anything when much of the country is experiencing combinations of  extreme weather, frozen ground, and relatively few hours of daylight?”

Gardeners know the answer. The gardening season has begun because the new plant catalogs—online and on paper—are arriving in email and regular mailboxes now.  The avalanche of enticing pictures and hyperbolic text began before the end of December and will only gain in intensity over the next few months.  Merchandisers have designed those mailings to encourage the kind of unbridled plant lust that can only be slaked by large orders.

So how does the average person, with average-size resources and an awareness of the current rate of inflation, achieve an outcome that satisfies some of that plant lust, but tempers it with a good dose of sanity?  By making a process out of spring buying and planting decisions, rather than trying to do everything at once.

Step One: Dream Big

This step usually happens when the last of the holiday decorations are safely stowed and you are eager to browse favorite vendors’ websites and catalogs.  Go through them all and mark off or list every plant that catches your fancy regardless of size, climate zone hardiness or cost.  Dreaming big is as necessary during the depths of  winter as adequate heating and a good snow shovel. The final list may be a little scary when you realize that you have fallen in love with at least 75 different plants, and that love affair will cost you more than you have budgeted for the entire growing season.  Never fear, this is only the first part of the process.

Step Two: Remember Last Year

No matter what the growing season was like in your part of the world last year, you’re had your share of successes and failures.  If you are an organized gardener, you recorded them or at least made mental notes.  Now is the time to think about what worked and what didn’t, where the “holes” are in your home landscape, and how you want the entire garden to look in this coming year.  It helps to walk around your garden when you do this, even if all you can see is a few dead stalks popping up through the snow.  Write it all down, along with any plant choices that you recorded or remember from last year.

If you are an efficient and organized person, you have probably made a detailed plan of your garden and tweaked that plan as necessary.  If that is the case, this step will take no time at all.

 

Step Three: Winnow Your Choices

This is when you have to get real.  First, take your “dream list” and cross off plants that are not hardy in your climate hardiness zone, unless you able to grow them in pots and overwinter them indoors.  If you really like the sizes, shapes or colors of those tender plants, look for species in the same genus or plant family that are hardy in your area.  For example, if you are in love with tropical hibiscus, look into mallow family members like roses of Sharon or hollyhocks, both of which are hardy and bear similar flowers.

Second, think about the available space.  If you have a  new garden, it pays not to cram it with plants in the first year.  Look around your neighborhood and see what thrives under the climate conditions in your area.  Start with some of those same plants.  If you are working with an established garden or container array, consider the holes in the planting scheme and how you want to fill them.  Give some thought to replacing struggling specimens.  If you are considering expanding  your garden, figure out the number and types of plants that will fill the space comfortably,  considering the mature sizes of your top choices.

Step Four: Make Your Orders

If your newly-winnowed list is still too expensive, cross off any plant that you don’t love or absolutely need.  Alternately, if some of the plants that you are considering are new introductions, look for older varieties in the same size and color range.  They are almost invariably cheaper.  This is especially true in the case of popular plants like daylilies and hostas, where scores of readily available varieties are available at any one time, and new introductions happen every year.  Also look for discounts, especially early bird discounts.  Merchants like to clear inventory and anticipate revenue as early as possible, even though that inventory won’t be delivered for weeks or months.  In January and February consumers can reap the greatest savings by knowing what they want and ordering promptly.

With a little planning and strategic thinking, you can start the new gardening season both wisely and well.  Saving dollars now will also leave a little room in the garden budget for the purchases you will make when the local garden centers open in the spring.

 

 

About Elisabeth Ginsburg

Born into a gardening family, Elisabeth Ginsburg grew her first plants as a young child. Her hands-on experiences range from container gardening on a Missouri balcony to mixed borders in the New Jersey suburbs and vacation gardening in Central New York State. She has studied horticulture at the New York Botanical Garden and elsewhere and has also written about gardens, landscape history and ecology for years in traditional and online publications including The New York Times Sunday “Cuttings” column, the Times Regional Weeklies, Horticulture, Garden Design, Flower & Garden, The Christian Science Monitor and many others. Her “Gardener’s Apprentice” weekly column appears in papers belonging to the Worrall chain of suburban northern and central New Jersey weekly newspapers and online at http://www.gardenersapprentice.com. She and her feline “garden supervisors” live in northern New Jersey.

Indispensable Aucuba

We gardeners are always wondering what to do with shade, especially dry shade.  Plants that have to survive on partial sunlight and perpetual competition from thirsty tree roots will often just fold up their leaves and die.  Needless to say, that is not a good look.

But all is not hopeless in the shady corners of gardens, yards and patios everywhere.  Aucuba japonica or spotted laurel is a plant that can save the day, whether it is used as a hedge, the anchor of a mixed perennial and shrub layout, or even as a large container-grown subject.

 

Native to China, Taiwan and Japan, as the Latin name suggests, aucuba is a broadleaf evergreen with a naturally rounded shape, and glossy, green elliptical leaves that may be as much as eight inches long.  You can keep the shrubs trimmed to just about any size, but left to their own devices, they may grow between six and ten feet tall, and five to nine feet wide.  Hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 6b through 9, aucubas are not fussy about soil, except for distaste for wet sites.  If your soil tends towards moisture-retentive clay, add an equal measure of a good quality organic amendment, like Fafard® Premium Natural and Organic Compost, to the soil when you plant.

Many sources suggest protection from cold winds at the north ends of the aucuba hardiness range, but otherwise the shrubs are generally pretty tough.  Once established they shrug off moderate drought, as well as air pollution.

Shade is aucuba’s friend, and, in fact, too much sunshine is likely to burn the young leaves.

Like hollies and some other evergreens, aucuba is dioecious, meaning that fruit production requires both male and female plants.  The shrubs flower in spring, with clusters of small purple blooms that appear in the leaf axils of female plants, and in panicles or upright flowerheads on male specimens.  When pollinated, the female flowers develop gradually into bright red berries that shine in the fall and often persist on the plants into the winter months.

The red fruits certainly add to the ornamental value of aucuba, but if you are buying the plant strictly for foliage, either male or female shrubs will do the job equally well.

 

The first time I spotted an aucuba in a nursery, it bore the characteristic glossy green leaves, but those leaves were dashed, dotted and splotched with yellow.  The shrub was probably the ‘Variegata’ variety, which has long been popular and has earned aucuba another nickname—“gold dust shrub”.  Nurseries and online vendors may also carry others, including  ‘Marmorata’, which also features yellow variegation on a shrub that grows seven feet tall, but only three feet wide.  The berries on female specimens are reputedly larger than those of other varieties.

For smaller gardens or containers, try ‘Rozannie’, which grows only three feet tall and wide, in an appealing, rounded configuration.   In areas north of USDA plant hardiness zone 6b, where winters are too cold for aucubas, potted ‘Rozannie’ shrubs can also be overwintered indoors.  The foliage is solid green, with the same glossy sheen that is present on other aucubas.  ‘Rozannie’ has the added allure of being able to produce berries without the assistance of a male plant, another plus in locations where space is limited.

Aucubas work well when combined with other shade lovers.  Surround them with spring-flowering daffodils interplanted with interesting hosta varieties for a great display that will take you from spring through summer.  Groundcovers like ajuga (Ajuga reptans) or lamium (Lamium maculatum) are also highly complementary, as are any of the many colorful coral bells (Heuchera) varieties that are widely available.

Shade may sometimes seem like a challenge, but shrubs like aucuba mean that it will never be boring.

About Elisabeth Ginsburg

Born into a gardening family, Elisabeth Ginsburg grew her first plants as a young child. Her hands-on experiences range from container gardening on a Missouri balcony to mixed borders in the New Jersey suburbs and vacation gardening in Central New York State. She has studied horticulture at the New York Botanical Garden and elsewhere and has also written about gardens, landscape history and ecology for years in traditional and online publications including The New York Times Sunday “Cuttings” column, the Times Regional Weeklies, Horticulture, Garden Design, Flower & Garden, The Christian Science Monitor and many others. Her “Gardener’s Apprentice” weekly column appears in papers belonging to the Worrall chain of suburban northern and central New Jersey weekly newspapers and online at http://www.gardenersapprentice.com. She and her feline “garden supervisors” live in northern New Jersey.