Gardeners beware, the enemy is among us. Operating by stealth, they wait for opportunities to transform our gardens from points of pride to scenes of devastation. They eat our cabbages and sweet corn, destroy our hostas, and root up our tulips. They are ravenously hungry and untroubled by human scruples. Continue reading “Managing the Six Worst Garden Animal Pests”
You love your dog. You love your garden. Sometimes, though, your dog and garden just don’t get along, and it is harder to feel the love. The dog follows its instincts and digs, pulls up plants, romps over delicate specimens, and relieves himself in the wrong places. You follow your instincts and get frustrated.
As with all things related to gardening, a little planning can prevent a lot of mayhem. Make a few adjustments to accommodate dog and animal priorities, and you can transform the garden into a place where both the resident gardener and the resident canine/s can feel comfortable.
Create garden paths and raised bed borders to keep straying humans and dogs out of garden beds and borders. Paved walkways are the best way to prevent muddy paws, but fine gravel or mulch will also work. Avoid using cocoa bean mulch along the paths or in beds because it is toxic to dogs, and they like to eat it.
Famed dog trainer, Barbara Woodhouse, famously said, “Dogs aren’t born knowing what or what not to do; they only learn like children.” Invest in proper training for your four-legged “child” so that the two of you can work together to set boundaries—literally and figuratively—for garden behavior. Training works best when you start on a puppy, but even older dogs can benefit, especially from a skilled trainer.
Training does not have to be expensive. A wide array of available books, videos, and apps can guide you through gentle, effective ways of training your dog. No matter what method you choose, the cost of training beats the trouble and expense of repairing your landscape when your furry friend misbehaves.
Use tough plants along paths and other canine traffic areas and plant densely, because bare earth invites canine curiosity, mischief, and digging. Enrich the soil every time you plant by using a quality amendment like Fafard® Garden Manure Blend to encourage thick, leafy growth
Ornamental grasses, compact shrubs, and even sturdy, clump-forming perennials, like big-root geranium (Geranium macrorrhizum), can withstand the occasional trampling or exuberant full-body roll and survive intact. Low-boundary fencing may also help separate pets from plants.
Avoid planting species and varieties with sharp prickles or spines, and keep toxic plants confined to areas that are off-limits to your dog. For a list of toxic indoor and outdoor plants, go to the ASPCA website on toxic plants (click here to view) or read our article about the 12 Most Poisonous Plants to Avoid for Kids and Pets.
Dogs also need places to relieve themselves. If you don’t set aside those dedicated spaces and train the dog to use them, dog waste will harm your lawn and garden. Garden sculptures and other formative yard decor are often attractive to dogs for this purpose. Better they wee on something structural than your plants. Encourage your dogs to mark the right garden areas, and they will return to those spots. Also, keep a pooper scooper handy to keep the lawn clean.
A bored canine is an unhappy canine. Keep some favorite dog toys in your garden basket or cart and use them to entertain the dog while you plant, weed, and water. Taking a moment to give your dog a chew toy or throw a ball is much better than watching pup munch the stems of your prize coneflowers and daisies.
Humans get flabby and unhappy without sufficient exercise, and dogs are no different. Walk your dog at least forty-five minutes every day, or hire someone else to do so when time is at a premium. Space permitting; install an enclosed dog run in a corner of your yard, with a latched gate and appropriate shelter for dogs that stay outside periods. A dog that gets regular exercise is less likely to tear up the iris bed or uproot the tomatoes.
One of the most celebrated gardeners and dog lovers was the late English plantsman, Christopher Lloyd, who rarely set foot in his garden at Great Dixter without his faithful dachshunds. Less famous gardeners agree that canine companionship is good for the psyche and may also deter plant predators like rabbits, groundhogs, and deer. Even if your dog only wags his tail at rabbits and groundhogs, if he is happy, chances are you will be happy, and the garden will be a better place all the way around.
Sometimes gardening life is just a little too pastel and predictable. A day dawns when all those pale pinks, powdery blues, and dreamy pale yellows look washed out, and you yearn for exuberant flowers that pop out of beds and containers with bursts of bright color. By adding a few “technicolor” flowers with deep, saturated colors, you can create explosions in the garden without scaring the neighbors. (Those same neighbors will probably also enjoy the bees, butterflies, and other pollinators drawn to your vibrant blooms.) Continue reading “Technicolor Gardening: Vibrant Garden Flowers”
Citronella-scented geranium deters mosquitoes.
In the centuries before sewers and daily bathing were common, rank odors were everywhere. That is probably why Europeans were so excited when scented geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) first arrived from their native South Africa in the early 17th century. With aromatic leaves exuding the fragrance of roses, citrus, or spice, the plants were immediately pressed into service as weapons in the ongoing battle against undesirable smells.
Some of the earliest scented geranium specimens were shipped to Holland by the Dutch East India Company and found their way into the hands of Dutch plant breeders, who propagated and crossbred them. Rose-scented types, especially the intensely fragrant Pelargonium graveolens ‘Attar of Roses’, were eventually produced in mass quantities for the perfume industry. By the Victorian era, the number of varieties had exploded, and the fragrant plants had become garden and conservatory staples. After a dip in popularity in the 20th century, the attractive and intoxicating plants are enjoying a renaissance, with 80 or more varieties available from specialty nurseries, like Mountain Valley Growers.
Scented geraniums are members of the Pelargonium genus, just like the common backyard and window box flowers that gardeners have loved for generations. In the case of fragrant types, tiny hairs on leaves and stems produce the various characteristic scents.
The plants are loosely grouped into five fragrance categories, including:
rose, citrus, mint, spice and “pungent” (with overtones of camphor, eucalyptus, or other strong, woodsy or medicinal aromas). The rose, citrus, and mint fragrances seem to be the strongest, with others like apricot and chocolate, registering more subtly. A fifth category, oak-leaf, comprises varieties bred from the Pelargonium quercifolium species, featuring oak-like leaves that bear distinctive, sometimes citrusy, or pungent scents. In all cases, the scents are most noticeable when you rub leaves between your fingers or brush by the plants on a sunny day.
While common geraniums are grown for their big, showy flowerheads, scented types feature smaller blooms and rely largely on the allure of sweet-smelling leaves. Those leaves vary from small and deeply dissected, like those of the classic lemon-scented P. crispum, to the scalloped and almost tomato-like foliage of the heavenly-smelling P. graveolens ‘Rober’s Lemon Rose’. Plants can be relatively slender and erect, or short and squat, and some varieties may sport variegated leaves. A few, like P. x fragrans ‘Logeei’, feature a cascading habit that works well in hanging baskets. The unscented flowers bloom in shades of cream, pink, red and purple, with bi-colored varieties marked with contrasting blotches.
Some of the most popular scented varieties include: Pelargonium graveolens ‘Lady Plymouth’, with large, cream-edged leaves and a rose fragrance; P. ‘Citronella’, with a lemon scent that is reputed to repel mosquitoes; P. graveolens ‘Old Fashioned Rose’, with purple flowers and an intense rose fragrance; P. fragrans ‘Old Spice’, reminiscent of the famous men’s cologne, and ‘Apple’, with a distinctive fruity aroma.
Scented geraniums are easy to grow and can get along well in a sunny window in cold winter climates. Most appreciate a summer vacation outdoors—either in containers or garden beds– beginning when night temperatures rise above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
To grow these fragrant plants, start with a good potting mix, like Fafard® Ultra Container Mix with Extended Feed, lightened with an equal amount of Fafard® Premium Natural & Organic Compost. Unglazed clay pots work better than plastic ones, allowing the soil to dry out more quickly. Water only when the top of the soil feels dry. Fertilize bi-weekly with 1/2 teaspoon of water soluble fertilizer per gallon of water. In winter, when plant growth slows, discontinue fertilizing. Prune plants periodically to maintain fuller growth.
The Victorians found that fresh rose or lemon geranium leaves added distinction to foods. The flavors are not overwhelming, but lend delicate notes to cakes, custards and other baked goods. Bury leaves in a closed sugar container for a few days and then use the flavored sugar to enhance the taste of teas or cold beverages. Elsewhere in the household, dry the leaves until crumbly to hold their scents in sachets and potpourris.
As landscape plants, scented geraniums work especially well in herb gardens, containers, and raised beds. For maximum enjoyment, position them close to paths or entry areas, where visitors can brush the leaves and liberate their unique fragrances.
It is thought that geraniums’ scented leaves evolved as a defense against plant predators. Many centuries later, they attract plant lovers.
What do famed chef, Alice Waters, celebrated anthropologist Jane Goodall, and actress Meryl Streep have in common? All support school gardening initiatives that not only teach children how to grow food but serve as outdoor learning centers and launch pads for lessons in everything from math to creative writing. From the Julien Elementary School Garden in Turlock, California, to Matty’s Garden at the Matthew Whaley Elementary School in Williamsburg, Virginia, the Edible Schoolyard movement is spreading like summer crabgrass. School gardens of every size, shape, and composition are springing up in urban, suburban, and rural school districts all over the country.
Celebrity endorsers and patrons are nice but not necessary to start a successful school gardening program. The critical components are adult vision, student involvement, and the ability to muster enough resources to establish and sustain the garden. If you think you can combine those elements, you are ready to get started.
School gardens often start with a single person: a parent, teacher or administrator with a passion for gardening. But, no one—especially not a successful school garden organizer—gardens alone. Start by engaging others, including school personnel, parents, and students. Work on refining the garden idea. Listen to everyone. Define the purpose of the garden and what kinds of crops you want to grow.
Successful school gardens often combine food and ornamental crops, with the ornamentals providing visual appeal and attracting essential pollinators, such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. (Click here to learn how to create a butterfly garden.) Use some of the many online school gardening resources to help in the planning process.
Gardeners and gardening educators know that location is everything. Pick a sunny space on school property and make sure that space is reasonably close to a reliable water supply. If the soil in the designated spot is extremely compacted or contaminated, amend the soil with a quality amendment, like Fafard Premium Natural & Organic Compost. You might also think about using raised beds or containers filled with high-quality planting mix like Fafard® Natural & Organic Potting Soil. Large, well-watered containers will also work beautifully if the only available site is covered in asphalt.
Before seeking approval from school authorities, your team should develop a clear, logical plan that includes as much of the stakeholders’ feedback as possible, plus practical and logistical considerations. The plan should also include a mission statement and information about the garden’s purpose, goals, size, and proposed location. Create estimates of the necessary resources—financial and human—needed for set-up and ongoing operation.
Focus on maintenance, making sure to include provisions for watering and upkeep during periods when school is not in session. (It may help to recruit a team of volunteers to help with upkeep.) Your goals may be lofty, but keep the overall plan simple and present it in a positive way with as many stakeholders present as possible. Be responsive to school authorities’ concerns and be prepared to make plan revisions.
You are going to need funding for garden supplies and seeds or starter plants. Many school gardens start with a contribution from the PTA or other parent organization. Local businesses may also be willing to donate supplies or at least provide discounts. Dedicated, well-publicized fundraisers are another possible funding avenue.
You can also seek out grant opportunities, some of the best being offered by Kids Gardening. This exceptional kids’ gardening program also offers additional educational resources to help educators and parents start school gardens.
With all of these pieces in place, you should be able to start a thriving school gardening program. There’s no better way to help kids learn and get them outdoors.
The best house plants add a lot of life to indoor spaces without adding extra hours to the day because they require as little fuss as possible. Their benefits are most notable in winter when the need for green, living things is the greatest. Only plastic plants are completely un-killable, but the following hard-to-kill eight need little, give a lot, and thrive under normal household conditions.
A cut Aloe vera leaf exudes a substance that soothes minor burns, a quality that has made this succulent plant a longtime kitchen staple. Its other virtues include an attractive clump of erect, grey-green leaves with serrated edges that are complemented in summer by tall spikes of tubular yellow flowers. Aloes increase freely by offsets or pups, creating new plants that can be separated from the mother plants and given away to friends and family. Best of all, the plants accomplish all that on a minimum of water and care.
Place your aloe in bright, direct sunlight (at least 6-hours a day) and water only when the soil is nearly dry. Plants can withstand partial sun, but they will perform poorly in shade. When moving aloes outdoors in summer, slowly acclimate them to full sun conditions to avoid leaf scald.
A favorite since Victorian times, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) works well on tall plant stands or in hanging baskets that allow the perky spiders (offshoots of plantlets) to cascade over the sides. The long, slender leaves, which also help purify indoor air, may be all green or striped with white or yellow and arch gracefully outward. Tiny white summer flowers are a nice bonus, as are the stems of young spider-like plantlets that form at the flowering stems.
Detach and pot plantlet separately when they reach about 2-inches across or keep them tethered to the parent plant, and place each “spider” atop a small pot filled with Fafard Professional Potting Mix. It will root readily. Spider plants thrive in bright, indirect light. Water regularly but do not allow their soil to become too wet.
The familiar Christmas or holiday cactus (Schlumbergera spp.) is sometimes also called crab cactus for its spreading growth habit. An epiphytic (tree-dwelling plant) cactus with arching, segmented leaves, it produces claw-like flowers of vivid red, pink, orange, cream, or purple at the ends of the stems in late fall to midwinter. These are true cacti, though they lack sharp spines.
Holiday cactus will flourish as long as they receive bright light and their yearly watering schedule is met. After flowering, plants should be watered very minimally for a period of three months. Then from mid-spring to summer, water them regularly when the soil feels dry down to 2-inches depth; in this time they will put on a new flush of foliage. In early fall, place them in a cool place and reduce watering once more, until you see flower buds on the plants. Then keep them regularly irrigated again until flowering ceases. (Click here to read more about growing Christmas cactus.)
You may call it snake plant or even mother-in-law’s tongue, but whatever the common name, Sansevieria trifasciata is an indoor standby. Its bold, lance-shaped foliage stands erect, generally reaching about 2-feet tall in sunny indoor situations. If your snake plant summers outdoors, place the container in sun to light shade. The leaf markings that inspired the snake in its name are gray-green against a lighter green background. Though it rarely happens indoors, sansevieria produces greenish-white flowers in spring, followed by orange berries later. The plants appreciate regular watering from spring to fall but reduce watering significantly in winter.
Outdoors, English ivy (Hedera helix) can be lovely, but virtually uncontrollable. Grown indoors in containers, it has better manners. Numerous cultivars, including many with interesting variegation and smaller leaves, are available from garden centers. Because of its expansive nature, ivy works well as a filler for large containers or in hanging baskets. As with many other house plants, it prefers bright indirect light. Watering should be regular and the potting mixture should not be allowed to dry out. When the ivy becomes too unruly, simply trim it to shape. Vines need to grow to a great height to flower and fruit, so indoor specimens never flower.
The jade plant (Crassula ovata), sometimes called a jade tree because of its gray trunk-like stems, is actually a branching, succulent shrub from southern Africa. The plump, glossy, oval-shaped leaves are its chief glory and sometimes have a slight reddish tinge, especially when grown in high sunlight. Indoor jades will occasionally produce small, starry, pinkish-white flowers as well. Container grown specimens may reach up to 30 inches tall and prefer bright light indoors and partial shade outside. Water when the soil feels dry down to a finger-length depth. (Click here to read more about jade plants.)
Golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a striking foliage plant with big, heart-shaped leaves, marbled or golden-green. In the wild, it is a vigorous climbing vine, but as a civilized houseplant, it grows no more than 6- to 8-feet long. If you want it even smaller, it can also be kept in check by periodic trimming. Because of its good looks and vining nature, the big-leafed plant is useful for hanging baskets, plant stands, and large containers. Bright indirect light, evenly moist soil, and occasional stem pinching will keep it full and healthy.
True to its tough nickname, cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) can survive shade, neglect, and climate conditions that would send many other plants into fatal swoons. Like spider plant, it was beloved by Victorians and is still a hit today. With green or variegated lance-shaped leaves that sprout on long petioles or leaf stems, mature aspidistra may grow to 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. The plants grow slowly and flower infrequently indoors. If flowers appear, they are purple and lurk near beneath the leaves. Aspidistras grow best with regular watering but will survive with little moisture.
Hard-to-kill houseplants need little help to look great if you start with good care. Average house plants require a high-quality mix like Fafard® Professional Potting Mix or Fafard® Ultra Potting Mix with Extended Feed, to ensure good growth and success. Established plants should be fed intermittently with diluted all-purpose fertilizer. More succulent house plants, like aloe, snake plant, jade, and Christmas cactus require mix with excellent drainage, so lighten consider lightening the potting mix with equal amounts of perlite. Succulents are accustomed to lean rations and need little additional fertilizer.
From wrens to cedar waxwings, birds inspire us with their flight and fascinate us with their songs. We can return those favors by creating bird-friendly environments in our own backyards, even if those “backyards” are terraces or balconies. All it takes is bountiful garden plants for birds and a small amount of garden care.
Basic gardening for birds comes down to a few necessities: food, water, shelter and an absence of poisons. Invest in birds and they will repay you handsomely.
Bird feeders filled with sunflower and thistle seed are excellent but pricey food source for winged visitors. Birds also appreciate the more cost-effective approach of planting species that bear nutritious fruits, nectar, and seeds. A planting scheme that includes at least a few flowering and fruiting species native to your area ensures that the birds will have their choice of familiar foods.
Flowers for Birds–The current vogue for coneflowers (Echinacea spp. and Rudbeckia spp.) is great for seed lovers like American goldfinches and house finches that feast on the seed heads at the end of the growing season. Sunflowers (Helianthus spp.) and purple cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) do the same thing. (Click here to learn all about growing annual sunflowers!) Tubular red blooms, such as those of scarlet monarda (Monarda didyma) is a sure lure for passing hummingbirds. If you grow in containers, choose compact flowers for birds in Fafard Professional Potting Mix.
Vines for Birds–Almost every gardener has vertical space that might be perfect for plants like non-invasive, native coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), which bears nectar-rich pink flowers that attract hummingbirds. Later in the growing season, the honeysuckle’s red berries are likely to catch the fancy of songbirds. If you have space, easy-to-grow Virginia creeper (Parthenosissus quinquefolia) can cover almost any structure or support while providing brilliant autumn leaves for humans and blue-black berries for avian friends.
Trees and Shrubs for Birds–Many shrubs and trees produce end-of-season berries, hips, and other fruits some of which persist into the winter, to sustain non-migrating birds like cardinals and waxwings. Forego deadheading your roses and they will provide you and the local birds with hips that are both attractive and nutritious. Dogwood trees (Cornus florida) beautify the spring garden with flowers and bear red berries in the fall as do flowering crabapples (Malus spp.). Deservedly popular and available in many shapes and sizes, Viburnums provide fruits for the likes of robins, cardinals, finches, and a host of other common birds. Shrubs like deciduous winterberry holly (Ilex verticillata), light up the winter garden and help keep birds alive in cold weather as do the copious bright red fruits of ‘Winter King’ hawthorn (Crataegus viridis ‘Winter King’).
Be a little untidy and let some leaf litter accumulate in at least a part of the yard or garden. This “litter” is good for the soil and harbors food for ground feeders like juncos and sparrows.
Planting a mix of densely-branched shrubs and trees of varying heights helps birds of all sizes and habits find shelter and nesting sites. Evergreens like holly (Ilex spp.) and arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) provide protection from the elements as well as food. Deciduous trees, including North American service berries (Amelanchier spp.) and crabapples (Malus spp.), feature dense branching, crooks, and hollows that make inviting nest sites.
And some of those nesting birds, like goldfinches, need the silky down from seeds like milkweed (Asclepias spp.) and thistle (Cirsium spp.) to line their nests. Gardeners have no need to plant thistles, but milkweeds are great garden flowers that attract butterflies and other insect pollinators.
Avian populations appreciate simple birdbaths, ground-level water dishes, or just about any water-filled vessel. Be sure to refill these backyard oases before they get dry and clean them regularly. Plants that hold drops of water on their leaf surfaces or in leaf or flower folds, like large-leaved hostas and calla lilies (Zantedeschia spp.), also offer drinks to birds.
Limit or completely curtail the use of pesticides and herbicides in your yard and garden to prevent chemical residue from disrupting the food chain and/or injuring birds. When expanding existing beds or planting new perennials, trees or shrubs, incorporate natural garden products like Fafard® Premium Topsoil, to enhance soil and plant health without posing a threat to wildlife. And, while it is impossible to stop all predators, you can improve the odds of avian survival by keeping domestic cats indoors. If feral cats are a problem, deter them with appropriate barriers.
What is a Native American rose? Is it the beach rose (Rosa rugosa) that grows vigorously on the sand dunes of northeastern America,
or the wreath rose (Rosa multiflora) that rampages all over the eastern half of the United States? Could it be the Cherokee rose (Rosa laevigata), which grows freely in Georgia? The answer is none of the above. All are prolific, tough species roses, but none are native to North America.
True native roses, which are both beautiful and useful for wild and not-so-wild landscapes, are a bit harder to find at local nurseries, but they are worth seeking out. They look great in wild landscapes, offering delicate fragrant flowers and colorful hips. Bees and wildlife love them!
Over 20 rose species are native to various parts of North America, but some are rarer than others. Most bloom only once a year and bear single, pollinator-friendly single flowers in white, pink, or rose. When the petals fade, native roses develop nutritious scarlet hips that are a treat for birds and animals, not to mention the humans who sometimes forage for them. Some natives are armed to the teeth with lots of sharp prickles, making them perfect for boundary or privacy hedges. Species like Rosa blanda, which feature relatively smooth stems, can hold their own in more “civilized” situations.
The following native roses have the widest North American geographic distribution, making them good candidates for wild gardens.
Pasture or Carolina Rose (Rosa carolina): Sometimes called the “pasture rose”, fragrant Rosa carolina roams much farther than the boundaries of its namesake state, surviving in dry open meadows and along forest edges. It is native to the eastern half of North America and succeeds especially well in the southeastern United States. The prickly plants grow 3-feet tall and wide with pink flowers that bloom from May to June, depending on the location. As with many species roses, petal color fades to near-white as the blooms age. The crisp green foliage turns beautiful shades of orange-red in the fall. Though quite shade tolerant, this disease-susceptible rose flowers and performs best in full sun.
Virginia Rose (Rosa virginiana): Rosa virginiana is a taller shrub rose (5- to 7-feet tall and 3-feet wide) that is less geographically widespread than Rosa carolina. It sports single, fragrant blooms that may be pink, yellow, or rose-purple and flower from June to August. It requires full to partial sun and is tolerant to a wide range of soil types, from moist soils to dry. Leaves turn fire orange-red in fall alongside deep red hips.
Prairie Rose (Rosa blanda): This sweet thornless rose bears several evocative nicknames, including “prairie rose”, “Hudson’s Bay rose” or “Labrador rose”, for its favored locales. Cold-hardy and tough, it is native across northeastern North America where it survives in open, dry, sunny prairies and open woods. Its nearly thornless stems and mounded habit make it a good candidate for use in “wild” planting schemes. Flower color varies from dark pink to white and blooming may occur from June to August. It only reaches 4-feet tall and wide, but it tends to spread, so it needs elbow room. Native plant lovers can rejoice in the fact that the relatively smooth stems make necessary pruning easier.
Wood’s Rose (Rosa woodsii): This is one of the better natives for colorful flowers and hips. Pink-flowered Wood’s rose is a westerner by inclination, found in growing wild in the western half of the United States and much of Canada. It also goes by the name “mountain rose” because it succeeds in challenging high-altitude conditions. Small, medium-pink flowers appear annually from May to July on upright shrubs adorned with blue-green foliage and a bumper crop of prickles. Growing up to 5-feet tall, Wood’s rose is extremely cold tolerant. In addition to the flowers, the shrubs produce loads of bright, teardrop-shaped hips and have fiery fall leaf color.
Swamp Rose (Rosa palustris): If your wild garden is damp, Rosa palustris may be right for you. Native to the eastern half of North America, swamp rose is a large shrub (8-12-feet tall) that likes to be sited at the water’s edge, where it can commune with moisture-loving sedges, iris, and other, similarly inclined plants. It will tolerate some shade but it blooms and performs best in full sun. The late spring blooms are lightly scented and may be deep rose pink or pale pink. The prickles are hooked, which makes pruning a challenge.
Climbing Prairie Rose (Rosa setigera): This spring-blooming climbing rose offers blooms that range from deep magenta to white. Sometimes known as the “bramble-leafed”, it sends out long, flexible shoots that enable it to scramble up to 15 feet, making it useful as a substitute for non-native climbing roses. If trained on an arch or trellis and provided full sun and good draining soil, climbing prairie rose can be a show-stopper. The fragrant pink blooms appear in clusters that develop into showy red hips in fall. Wise gardeners remove the root suckers that inevitable sprout at the base, enabling the plant to shoot skyward without producing a thicket underneath.
Remember that wild landscapes and gardens can be “wild” without looking completely unruly. They are created using native species and emphasize biodiversity, habitat creation, sustainability, and beauty. Plant placement can be naturalistic while also be civilized and pleasing to the eye.
To use native roses most effectively, provide enough space. Many, but not all varieties grow tall and relatively wide, with a tendency to form dense thickets if left to their own devices. They look great planted alongside bold native Adam’s needle (Yucca filamentosa), breezy native bunch grasses like Shenandoah switch grass (Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’), and native purple coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea).
Species roses have gotten by on their own for millennia, but they will respond with more flowers and hips if given a good start with a quality soil amendment like Fafard® Premium Topsoil, alfalfa meal natural fertilizer, and regular of water. All bloom and perform better if given open air and full sun. Prune seasonally to keep plants tidy and to promote good airflow, which will dissuade fungal diseases.
Native roses are not available in big-box stores or even most garden centers. The best way to locate specific species is to seek out mail order nurseries that specialize in species roses. High Country Roses is one such source.
Trees are the ultimate givers, offering summer shade, protection from wind, and cleaner air. They also beautify our landscapes, often providing food and serving as habitats for wildlife. But, even in the face of all that generosity, we often ignore them. Our trees deserve better, and summer is a good time to turn over a new leaf and focus on tree care.
Summer weather stresses trees. Drought is hardest on very young or old specimens but ultimately affects them all. Storms threaten stability and bring weak or diseased limbs crashing to the ground. Lawn and garden equipment damages tree bark, while untreated pests and diseases can decimate entire communities of once-healthy trees. Fortunately, it takes only a little observation and a bit of care to help trees withstand those stresses, enabling them to continue giving for decades to come.
Start by taking a good look at all the trees on your property, using binoculars, if necessary, for large trees. Check for limbs that are dead, cracked or otherwise compromised. If damaged trees are large or need anything more than minor pruning, call a tree expert to perform the work. This may seem expensive, but corrective pruning helps trees withstand summer windstorms and prevents potential property damage and personal injury caused by falling limbs.
If you seek expert advice or help with pruning, ask an arborist or tree surgeon to check for pests and diseases. Pernicious pests like the emerald ash borer and the Asian long horned beetle can wreak wide-scale havoc, killing scores of trees in a single area, if infestations aren’t promptly controlled. Bag worms, fall webworms, and early season tent caterpillars can cause significant damage to foliage, which stresses trees. Wasting diseases, like verticillium wilt in maples, can sometimes be arrested, if affected trees are treated in time.
If you don’t have expert help, check with your local cooperative extension agent to find out which pests and diseases are most prevalent in your area. Some municipalities employ professional arborists who can also provide this information. Take a good look at tree bark and foliage for telltale problem signs. Follow the expert’s advice on treatment or prevention of pest or disease outbreaks.
All trees need regular water, though mature specimens, with broad, healthy root systems are best able to tolerate extended droughts. Young trees are a different story and need water every few days if rainfall is sparse or nonexistent. The best way to water tree roots is low and slow irrigation, positioning the water source close to the ground. This means soaker hoses circling trees’ bases. For newly planted and very young trees, property owners can also buy “tree bags”, water-holding, heavy-duty plastic bags constructed to wrap around the trunk. Small holes in the bottoms of the bags allow water to seep slowly to the roots, a process that takes several hours, depending on the size of the bag. Refilled every day or two during drought spells, the bags can be lifesavers for immature trees.
Power string trimmers are great garden time savers, allowing landscapers and homeowners to keep bed edges neat and tidy. But repeated blows to trees from trimmers can penetrate tree bark to the point where young trees may die. Trimmer injuries may not kill older specimens outright, but create entry points for damaging pests and diseases.
The best way to separate trimmers and tree trunks are to mulch tree rings around trees, a technique that also conserves soil moisture and keeps weeds under control. Spread high-quality mulch in a circle with a radius of at least 2 feet around the base of the tree. Keep the depth at about two to three inches and do not let the mulch touch the trunk. So-called “mulch volcanos”, where large amounts of mulch are hilled up around tree trunks, contributes to the spread of bacterial and fungal diseases. Always aim to create a moderately deep “mulch doughnut”, rather than a mountainous mulch “volcano”.
Tree planting is also best done in spring or fall, when weather conditions are less likely to stress young saplings. However, if you must plant in summer’s heat, “water in” the tree by filling the planting hole part way with water before installation. If the surrounding soil is poor, thin or compacted, fill in around the tree’s root ball with a mix of the removed soil and an equal amount of high-quality, fertile planting material, like Fafard® Premium Topsoil. Once the tree is planted, remember to water well, especially in hot, dry weather.
It is best to fertilize trees in the spring, just before the first flush of growth. This growth slows down in summer, so the season is not optimal for fertilization.
Sitting under a tall shade tree with friends, family or just a good book is one of the best ways to spend a summer afternoon. Timely summer tree care is the best way to ensure that you will continue to enjoy that experience for many years.
Gardening with edible and ornamental plants makes gardening a little tastier and more valuable. Not many of us have the time and space for immense ornamental landscapes anymore, but lots of us take great pride in our shrubs, perennials, and annuals. At the same time, we want to eat better, fresher food, and that urge has led us back to the garden. Limited space means that we have to grow ornamentals and edibles side-by-side. Fortunately, it is easy to do, and the results can be just as beautiful as an ornamental-only landscape.
For most of horticultural history, average people grew food from necessity, with little thought to purely ornamental plants. Inevitably, though, some gardeners noticed that certain edible plants and herbs sported lovely flowers or foliage that added a dimension to the vegetable garden. Others even transplanted flowering specimens from the wild into corners of their home vegetable plots. Eventually, as great civilizations (Egyptians, Ancient Persians, and Greeks) grew wealthy, ornamental gardening came into its own, with immense ornamental landscapes designed, constructed, and documented in detail by artists and writers. Gardeners today are able to take the best from both worlds, mixing the edible and ornamental for increased garden value.
The vegetable gardener’s mantra—“Grow what you like to eat”—is a good place to start if you have decided to take the plunge and mix some edibles among your ornamental plants. The feathery fronds of bronze or green fennel make a lovely addition to any garden and also attract swallowtail butterflies, but if you don’t like fennel, growing it may waste space that is better used for other plants.
Just about everyone loves fresh tomatoes and peppers, which are easy to grow and come in many varieties. They also thrive under the same conditions as horticultural divas like roses—at least 8 hours of sunlight per day, rich soil and fairly consistent moisture. The problem is that most tomato plants—especially indeterminate types that keep growing and producing all season–need some kind of support. Typical wire tomato cages are not the loveliest addition to an ornamental garden. Solve the tomato problem by training the plants up a simple bamboo stake or decorative tuteur or trellis that can hold its own among the flowering plants.
This technique not only makes a virtue out of necessity, but it works for other vining plants like beans, cucumbers, and even squash. For a lovely garden backdrop, try scarlet runner beans trained up a trellis. The flowers are a brilliant red and the beans are delicious either raw or cooked.
For a successful edible/ornamental combination, don’t neglect adequate plant nutrition. Give both types of plants a good start by enriching your garden soil with a rich soil amendment like Fafard® Garden Manure Blend. Not only will it add needed organic matter for better water-holding capacity, but it will also enrich the soil for better overall performance.
If fruit is your idea of the perfect edible crop, and you want a beautiful ornamental plant, try growing blueberries (Vaccinium spp. and cultivars). These shrubs feature lovely pinkish-white, bell-shaped flowers in the spring, followed by neat, green oval-shaped leaves. The tasty blue fruits appear in early summer and scarlet leaves announce the arrival of fall. Blueberries like the same acid soil as rhododendrons and azaleas and would complement them well in a mixed shrub or shrub/perennial border. Smaller varieties can even be grown in containers and can hold their own among the pots of geraniums and snapdragons on a porch or terrace. The same holds true of strawberries, with their white flowers and brilliant red fruits, grown in the pockets of decorative ceramic or terra cotta strawberry pots.
Herbs have long been used as ornamentals. Purple basil makes a dramatic edging plant at the front of a border and would provide a perfect complement to red/orange marigolds or late summer dahlias. The strong aroma of the basil also helps deter garden varmints like rabbits and deer. Pineapple sage, with its variegated leaves, makes a lovely filler for a pot of flowering annuals. The leaves are also the perfect enhancement for a glass of lemonade.
If your ornamental landscape is mature and already filled with plants, look for “holes” where you can install a few ‘Bright Lights’ chard plants or fill in with low-growing herbs like thyme. Start small, with a few edibles and then, when the “grow your own” bug bites, increase the number of edibles. You will be amazed at how well it all fits together.
