At various times and places, purple has been the color of royalty, rock stars, and rebellion. It has represented bravery, as well as overwrought prose. A shade of purple—mauve—was even used to describe the 1890’s, a time when the invention and widespread use of aniline dyes made purple fabrics and clothes widely available.
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Tag: Elisabeth Ginsburg
Wishbone Flowers for Shade Garden Color
Gardeners the world over have long suffered from a common ailment—we covet plants, climate conditions, and time that we don’t have. This is especially true of gardeners with shady landscapes. Our gardens may support all kinds of ferns, but we want roses. Hostas the size of small houses sprout without any help at all while we pine for sunflowers. The list of “wants” versus realities goes on and on.
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The Sweetest Spring Carrots
Poet John Keats said, “A thing of beauty is a joy forever.” And a spring carrot is truly a thing of beauty, if even if it is covered with dirt when pulled from the ground. Wash off the dirt and take a bite of that carrot. You will discover its inner beauty. Time spent in cool spring soil gives home-grown carrots a fresh sweetness that store-bought roots will never have.
The key to harvesting tasty early carrots is planting the right types. Fortunately, there are plenty to choose from—even if your “vegetable patch” is just a series of containers.
There are two ways to grow carrots for early harvest: let fall-planted carrots overwinter in the ground and harvest them early in spring before they flower. Varieties planted in fall are specialty winter carrots, like the 7-8-inch long, heirloom ‘Imperator’ carrot (75 days), which is ideal for winter growing. If you did not do that, but want carrots as early as possible, sow them in spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Carrots generally mature in 60-75 days, though faster-growing cultivars are available, which mature in as little as 50 days. When you are checking available varieties online, in print catalogs, or seed displays, pay attention to the number of days to harvest and choose those that mature in the shortest time.
Spring Carrot Types
Nantes-type carrots are among the best for spring planting, and they are easy to grow, even if your soil is less than ideal. Choose a variety like ‘Nelson’, which matures is only 58 days and produces 6-inch, blunt-tipped little carrots with both sweetness and great orange color. ‘Nantes Half Long’, which matures in about 70 days, is another good choice in this category and does not form a woody central core like some other varieties. The finger-sized ‘Adelaide’ (50 days) is another Nantes type favored as a baby carrot. Harvested at about 3-inches long, it is perfect for salads.
There are other baby carrot varieties that are fun to eat, easy to grow, and perfect for early planting and harvesting. These are not the “baby carrots” that you buy in the supermarket, which are often processed from broken carrot pieces, but carrots bred for compact size. Not only do these carrots mature quickly, but they are also the right size for raised beds or containers.
The Dutch-bred ‘Yaya Hybrid’ carrot matures in as little as 55 days, producing roots that are 4 to 5-inches long. They are quite sweet, and if you don’t eat them out of hand, they also work well in carrot cakes or muffins. The ‘Caracas’ hybrid is even shorter and rounder than ‘Yaya’, reaching 2 to 3-inches long. At only 57 days to maturity, it will be ready in a hurry. Though not as perfect as the supermarket babies, they are much tastier. ‘Thumbelina Baby Ball’ matures in as little as 60 days and boasts round, 1 to 2-inch carrots with smooth skin. Once washed, they do not need peeling
Long-rooted, specialty varieties, like the red ‘Malbec’ (70 days), crisp, golden ‘Gold Nugget’ (68 days), ivory ‘White Satin’ (68 days), and the award-winning, reddish-purple ‘Purple Haze’ (73 days) are all good choices that will bring extra color to your table.
Growing Spring Carrots
Whatever variety you choose, soil preparation is important. Since carrots are roots that have to push down through the ground, give them an easy time by making sure the soil is loose, rich in organic matter, and free of stones. If you live in an area with clay soil, incorporate lots of well-aged compost, like Fafard® Premium Natural & Organic Compost, into your soil and work it in well
When soil conditions are simply impossible, plant carrots in raised beds, or grow them in containers filled with rich potting mix, like Fafard Natural & Organic Potting Soil, which is OMRI Listed® for organic gardening. The baby types are excellent for container growing. Follow the seed packet directions for your variety and make note of their days to harvest.
Whether you grow in-ground or in containers, plant carrot seeds in early spring as soon as the soil can be cultivated. They will start growing their best when temperates reach 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Carrots like a sunny spot and regular moisture. In garden beds, make sure the soil has been loosened to a depth of at least 9 inches. (Click here to learn how to double dig for better root crops.) Sow the seeds in rows; spacing is not an issue because seedlings can be thinned after germination. If you feel uncomfortable handling the tiny carrot seeds, you can purchase larger, pelleted seed. Make furrows about 1/4 inch deep, and cover the seed with a thin layer of soil (adding a top layer of water-holding peat can aid germination). Water gently so that the little seeds stay put. In as little as 14 days, they will germinate, and your carrots will be on their way
Novice gardeners are always hesitant to thin seedlings, but it is important to give your carrots some elbow room. When the seedlings are about 1-inch-tall, thin them so they are spaced 3 inches apart.
Protecting Carrots
To keep Peter rabbit and his vole friends away from your garden carrots, plant them in tall pots or surround them with chicken wire fencing that is at least 3-feet tall. The bottom 6 inches should be below soil level, with the ends of the wire bent away from the garden bed. When you water your plants or check on them, make sure that there are no gaps in the fencing where animals have found their way in.
Mark your calendar for the number of days that your carrot varieties need to mature. When they are ready, let your kids join in the harvest! Before harvest, loosen the ground around the carrot a bit with a garden fork and then pull. Otherwise, the carrot tips may break off in the soil. Harvest what you need immediately. The rest of your crop can stay in the ground a few more weeks, or a bit longer if you live somewhere with very cool early spring and summer temperatures\
Growing carrots is easy and will increase your horticultural self-confidence. It is a great thing to do with kids, and it will bring out your inner kid. You may never want a supermarket carrot again.
Cool House Plants for Hanging
Are you a house plant fanatic who wants new and different ways to show even more green specimens? Do you live in a small space with limited room for indoor greenery? Are you looking for new and different living accents to perk up your decorating scheme?
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Clivia for Glorious Winter Flowers
From the last week of November through the first of the New Year, many of us are surrounded by colorful seasonal decorations. But then January arrives and all that glitters is gone. To stave off Seasonal Affective Disorder, or at least help tide you over until the first crocuses push up through the cold earth, invest in house plants that bloom naturally during the winter months. Clivia miniata, occasionally called “Natal lily” or “fire lily”, but most often known as just plain “clivia” is one of the best.
With bold orange or yellow clusters of trumpet-shaped flowers blooming atop tall (18-24”) stalks and strappy green leaves, clivia is reminiscent of other well-loved Amaryllis family members, like amaryllis (Hippeastrum hybrids) and Jersey lilies (Nerine spp.). In fact, the upward-facing clivia trumpets look somewhat like small amaryllis flowers. The tender perennial is only winter hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 9-11.
Clivia History
The genus was named in honor of an Englishwoman, Lady Charlotte Florentia Clive, wife of an early Nineteenth century Duke of Northumberland. Clivia is native to coastal areas in the KwaZulu-Natal region of South Africa, where the orange-flowered form was discovered by English plant hunters in the early 1820s. The first plants to bloom in England did so in 1827 in a greenhouse at Syon House, one of the Northumberland residences. Much later, in 1888, a rarer, yellow-flowered clivia was discovered, also in the Natal.
The colorful flowers were a hit and clivia became a “must-have” for wealthy Victorian plant collectors. As the Nineteenth century progressed, the cheerful orange blooms became common in conservatories and greenhouses. Fast forward nearly 100 years to the second half of the twentieth century, and breeders in the United States, Australia, and elsewhere were hard at work enlarging the number of forms and colors, especially in the yellow range. Hybridization has also resulted in peach, pink, and, orange-red flowered forms, though they are quite expensive. While clivia hybridizing is not difficult, it takes many generations to produce strong, reliable new strains.
Clivia Sources
These days, orange and yellow clivia are available at reasonable prices from many traditional and online outlets. Blooming specimens are the most expensive, however, if you are willing to be patient and play the long game, you can get a smaller plant for relatively little, and nurture it to blooming size. Remember that the pictures you see online or in catalogs are probably photos of mature plants. Your smaller clivia may not have as many blooms, especially in its first year or two of flowering.
Clivia Care
Whether your clivia is mature or somewhat smaller, pot it up using a high-quality potting mixture, like Fafard® Professional Potting Mix. The size of the decorative pot should only be a little larger than the nursery pot. Clivia is fond of close quarters.
The care regimen is reasonably easy. If yours is already in bloom, position the pot where you can see the flowers best, water when the top of the soil feels dry, and enjoy the show for up to a month in midwinter. Afterward, place it in a sunny window and continue to water and feed it regularly with a balanced water-soluble fertilizer according to package directions. If you can do so, let your clivia have a summer vacation outside in a lightly shaded location that is protected from wind and other weather-related disturbances.
If you live in a cold-winter area, bring the plant indoors before the first frost. To stimulate winter bloom, stop watering around October first, and put the clivia in a cool place, ideally with a temperature between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, for at least five weeks, preferably a bit longer. When the dormancy period is over, bring the plant back into the warmth and light and begin watering again. Flower stalks should appear after a few weeks. Keep up this routine for a few years, and you will most likely see more flowers every year. When repotting, which should only happen after several years, do not increase the pot size dramatically or flowering may be affected.
Unlike some other decorative plants, clivia is an excellent long-term investment. It is well worth it to see some floral light at the end of the midwinter tunnel.
Bringing Herbs Indoors for Winter
Summer vacation is wonderful for people with culinary herbs. While you enjoy longer days and uninterrupted stretches of shorts-and-sandals weather, your plants are basking in summer sunshine and warmth. Basil grows bushy, thyme exudes powerful fragrance, and mints threaten to take over the landscape. You can harvest herbs whenever you need them, secure in the knowledge that the summer garden will provide an ever-ready supply.
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Growing and Harvesting Everlasting Flowers
Flowers are nature’s most beautiful and ephemeral gifts to us. But for gardeners, especially those living in cold-winter climates, the gift is seasonal. Winter comes, flowers fade, and the bright colors of spring and summer are just a memory.
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Beating Tomato Pests and Diseases
All winter long, tomato lovers suffer, eating supermarket fruit with the taste and texture of foam packing peanuts. Finally, summer arrives, bringing a harvest of tart, sweet, sunshiny tomatoes. You can buy these edible jewels at the local farmers’ market, but there is something incredibly satisfying about growing your own. A just-picked tomato, still warm from the sun is nirvana in a red wrapper.
But the path to that nirvana can be strewn with obstacles. Tomato plants are subject to a host of pests and diseases. Bacteria, viruses, and fungi attack stalks, leaves, and fruit, while insects make every attempt to rob gardeners of hard-won harvests. Even the best-regulated vegetable garden is not immune to tomato maladies.
Knowing the enemy, whether it is a pest, disease or disorder, is the first line of defense. Following good cultural practices is the second, and learning effective treatments for specific problems is the third.
So who are these enemies of the tomato?
Tomato Fungal Diseases
Fungi thrive in humid weather and poor air circulation. Several different types afflict tomatoes, most often manifesting themselves in the form of brown or black leaf spots.
Early blight generally starts on older foliage and shows up as small brown spots. Left untreated it can defoliate plants and rot the fruit. Leaves also drop in the case of septoria leaf drop and leaf mold, both of which cause brown leaf spots. Buckeye rot and anthracnose show up on fruit, with brown spots in the case of buckeye rot and spots with salmon-colored spores in the case of anthracnose. Fusarium wilt kills the entire plant, with leaves losing color as the infection progresses. Southern blight also kills the entire plant and is distinguished by brown lesions on the lowest part of the stem.
Possibly the worst tomato disease is late blight, which not only kills entire plants but is highly contagious, with spores that spread by wind. Caused by the Phytophthora infestans fungus, the disease manifests itself in the form of bullseye-type spots on leaves. If you suspect late blight, get a positive identification from the nearest cooperative extension agent. Once the identification is made, all infected plants should be destroyed (not composted). If neighbors raise tomatoes or potatoes, it is helpful to notify them as well. Keep vigilant for signs of the disease on unaffected plants.
Tomato Bacterial and Viral Diseases
Tomatoes can also be stopped in their tracks by bacterial and viral diseases. One of them is bacterial wilt, which causes a generalized decline of affected plants. Another is a bacterial spot, which produces brown leaf spots and scabby patches on fruits.
Spread by thrips, tomato spotted wilt virus shows up in the forms of spotted leaves and discolored fruits that fail to ripen properly. Whiteflies harbor tomato yellow leaf curl virus, which results in curled, misshapen leaves, sudden blossom drop and stunted fruit. Tobacco mosaic virus causes mottled, misshapen leaves and plant weakness.
Tomato Pests
Insect predators of tomato include aphids, which attach themselves to stems and leaves and suck out the plant’s juices. Tomato fruitworm larva develops inside fruits, making them inedible, and large, ugly tomato hornworms dine voraciously on stems and leaves, before taking on fruits.
Colorado potato beetles are another pest that will go for tomatoes when potatoes are not available. The striped yellow and brown beetles lay clusters of golden-orange eggs below leaves and orange and black larvae quickly emerge–both will eat tomato leaves and fruit.
Other Tomato Problems
Tomatoes can also be afflicted by blossom end rot, which causes rot that begins at the bases of fruits. It is caused by calcium deficiency, so feeding your tomatoes well will stop this common physiological problem.
Tomatoes with growth cracks and catfaced tomatoes with abnormal bulges and cavities are not diseased. Instead, it’s environmental factors that mar the appearance and viability of the fruit. Water cracking is also a problem that occurs on fully developed fruits after heavy rain. Excess water fills the fruits and causes them to crack on the vine. And if defoliation occurs on plants, tomatoes are susceptible to being marred by sunscald, which causes fruits to develop light watery spots in high sun exposure.
So…What Can You Do?
The first line of defense against pests and diseases is extremely cheap and relatively easy—good cultural practices. Start with the tomato seeds or visibly strong, healthy plants and choose disease-resistant varieties. Remember that not all varieties are resistant to all diseases. Local cooperative extension or nursery personnel can help with questions about tomato diseases prevalent in your area and which varieties are most resistant to those diseases.
Once you choose your tomatoes, plant them in good soil, enriched with a high-quality amendment like Fafard® Garden Manure Blend. Space plants so that they have plenty of air circulation (15-24 inches apart) and use tomato cages or other supports to get plants and fruits up off the ground. Water regularly, especially during dry periods, and prevent the spread of spore-borne diseases by using soaker hoses to water at ground level.
Be alert for signs of fungal diseases and if they appear, remove and destroy affected plant parts. Do not compost them. At the end of the growing season, remove all plant parts and debris, so that spores do not overwinter in the soil. From year to year, practice crop rotation to discourage pathogens. If you are growing tomatoes in containers, start each season with fresh soil, after washing containers with a solution of one part household bleach to nine parts water.
Anti-fungal solutions, including organic mixtures, are available at nurseries and garden centers. Depending on the compound, the anti-fungal remedy can be used as a preventive measure or to stop the spread of fungus on affected plants. Either way, follow manufacturers’ directions carefully.
Some people swear by homemade fungal deterrent sprays, including one made with one tablespoon of cider vinegar per gallon of water. Apply every few days to stems as well as tops and bottoms of leaves. Another popular kitchen-based fungal remedy calls for one tablespoon of baking soda per gallon of water, augmented with two tablespoons of vegetable oil and a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Shake the mixture well and apply with a spray bottle every few days and after rainstorms.
Dispatch aphids with a strong spray from a hose, or spray plants with insecticidal soap, following package directions. Watch for tomato fruitworms and hornworms on plants. Check for holes in leaves or fruit and destroy any that show signs of damage. Handpick the worms and drop them into containers of soapy water. Wear gloves for this job. If you are squeamish about handling these wriggly creatures, remember that when it comes to beating pests and diseases, the end justifies the means. The taste of a sweet summer tomato will make you forget all about worms and wilts.
Flowers for Coastal Gardens
The phrase “coastal gardens” evokes a host of memorable images, billowing daisies flanking gray-shingled cottages, bright “dune roses” blooming against an ocean background, or pots of brilliant red geraniums on a wooden pier. North America has an abundance of coastal areas that are home to a wide array of coastal gardens.
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Managing the Six Worst Garden Animal Pests
Gardeners beware, the enemy is among us. Operating by stealth, they wait for opportunities to transform our gardens from points of pride to scenes of devastation. They eat our cabbages and sweet corn, destroy our hostas, and root up our tulips. They are ravenously hungry and untroubled by human scruples. Continue reading “Managing the Six Worst Garden Animal Pests”