Flowers are nature’s most beautiful and ephemeral gifts to us. But for gardeners, especially those living in cold-winter climates, the gift is seasonal. Winter comes, flowers fade, and the bright colors of spring and summer are just a memory.
Continue reading “Growing and Harvesting Everlasting Flowers”
Author: Elisabeth Ginsburg
Born into a gardening family, Elisabeth Ginsburg grew her first plants as a young child. Her hands-on experiences range from container gardening on a Missouri balcony to mixed borders in the New Jersey suburbs and vacation gardening in Central New York State.
She has studied horticulture at the New York Botanical Garden and elsewhere and has also written about gardens, landscape history and ecology for years in traditional and online publications including The New York Times Sunday “Cuttings” column, the Times Regional Weeklies, Horticulture, Garden Design, Flower & Garden, The Christian Science Monitor and many others.
Her “Gardener’s Apprentice” weekly column appears in papers belonging to the Worrall chain of suburban northern and central New Jersey weekly newspapers and online at http://www.gardenersapprentice.com. She and her feline “garden supervisors” live in northern New Jersey.
Beating Tomato Pests and Diseases
All winter long, tomato lovers suffer, eating supermarket fruit with the taste and texture of foam packing peanuts. Finally, summer arrives, bringing a harvest of tart, sweet, sunshiny tomatoes. You can buy these edible jewels at the local farmers’ market, but there is something incredibly satisfying about growing your own. A just-picked tomato, still warm from the sun is nirvana in a red wrapper.
But the path to that nirvana can be strewn with obstacles. Tomato plants are subject to a host of pests and diseases. Bacteria, viruses, and fungi attack stalks, leaves, and fruit, while insects make every attempt to rob gardeners of hard-won harvests. Even the best-regulated vegetable garden is not immune to tomato maladies.
Knowing the enemy, whether it is a pest, disease or disorder, is the first line of defense. Following good cultural practices is the second, and learning effective treatments for specific problems is the third.
So who are these enemies of the tomato?
Tomato Fungal Diseases
Fungi thrive in humid weather and poor air circulation. Several different types afflict tomatoes, most often manifesting themselves in the form of brown or black leaf spots.
Early blight generally starts on older foliage and shows up as small brown spots. Left untreated it can defoliate plants and rot the fruit. Leaves also drop in the case of septoria leaf drop and leaf mold, both of which cause brown leaf spots. Buckeye rot and anthracnose show up on fruit, with brown spots in the case of buckeye rot and spots with salmon-colored spores in the case of anthracnose. Fusarium wilt kills the entire plant, with leaves losing color as the infection progresses. Southern blight also kills the entire plant and is distinguished by brown lesions on the lowest part of the stem.
Possibly the worst tomato disease is late blight, which not only kills entire plants but is highly contagious, with spores that spread by wind. Caused by the Phytophthora infestans fungus, the disease manifests itself in the form of bullseye-type spots on leaves. If you suspect late blight, get a positive identification from the nearest cooperative extension agent. Once the identification is made, all infected plants should be destroyed (not composted). If neighbors raise tomatoes or potatoes, it is helpful to notify them as well. Keep vigilant for signs of the disease on unaffected plants.
Tomato Bacterial and Viral Diseases
Tomatoes can also be stopped in their tracks by bacterial and viral diseases. One of them is bacterial wilt, which causes a generalized decline of affected plants. Another is a bacterial spot, which produces brown leaf spots and scabby patches on fruits.
Spread by thrips, tomato spotted wilt virus shows up in the forms of spotted leaves and discolored fruits that fail to ripen properly. Whiteflies harbor tomato yellow leaf curl virus, which results in curled, misshapen leaves, sudden blossom drop and stunted fruit. Tobacco mosaic virus causes mottled, misshapen leaves and plant weakness.
Tomato Pests
Insect predators of tomato include aphids, which attach themselves to stems and leaves and suck out the plant’s juices. Tomato fruitworm larva develops inside fruits, making them inedible, and large, ugly tomato hornworms dine voraciously on stems and leaves, before taking on fruits.
Colorado potato beetles are another pest that will go for tomatoes when potatoes are not available. The striped yellow and brown beetles lay clusters of golden-orange eggs below leaves and orange and black larvae quickly emerge–both will eat tomato leaves and fruit.
Other Tomato Problems
Tomatoes can also be afflicted by blossom end rot, which causes rot that begins at the bases of fruits. It is caused by calcium deficiency, so feeding your tomatoes well will stop this common physiological problem.
Tomatoes with growth cracks and catfaced tomatoes with abnormal bulges and cavities are not diseased. Instead, it’s environmental factors that mar the appearance and viability of the fruit. Water cracking is also a problem that occurs on fully developed fruits after heavy rain. Excess water fills the fruits and causes them to crack on the vine. And if defoliation occurs on plants, tomatoes are susceptible to being marred by sunscald, which causes fruits to develop light watery spots in high sun exposure.
So…What Can You Do?
The first line of defense against pests and diseases is extremely cheap and relatively easy—good cultural practices. Start with the tomato seeds or visibly strong, healthy plants and choose disease-resistant varieties. Remember that not all varieties are resistant to all diseases. Local cooperative extension or nursery personnel can help with questions about tomato diseases prevalent in your area and which varieties are most resistant to those diseases.
Once you choose your tomatoes, plant them in good soil, enriched with a high-quality amendment like Fafard® Garden Manure Blend. Space plants so that they have plenty of air circulation (15-24 inches apart) and use tomato cages or other supports to get plants and fruits up off the ground. Water regularly, especially during dry periods, and prevent the spread of spore-borne diseases by using soaker hoses to water at ground level.
Be alert for signs of fungal diseases and if they appear, remove and destroy affected plant parts. Do not compost them. At the end of the growing season, remove all plant parts and debris, so that spores do not overwinter in the soil. From year to year, practice crop rotation to discourage pathogens. If you are growing tomatoes in containers, start each season with fresh soil, after washing containers with a solution of one part household bleach to nine parts water.
Anti-fungal solutions, including organic mixtures, are available at nurseries and garden centers. Depending on the compound, the anti-fungal remedy can be used as a preventive measure or to stop the spread of fungus on affected plants. Either way, follow manufacturers’ directions carefully.
Some people swear by homemade fungal deterrent sprays, including one made with one tablespoon of cider vinegar per gallon of water. Apply every few days to stems as well as tops and bottoms of leaves. Another popular kitchen-based fungal remedy calls for one tablespoon of baking soda per gallon of water, augmented with two tablespoons of vegetable oil and a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Shake the mixture well and apply with a spray bottle every few days and after rainstorms.
Dispatch aphids with a strong spray from a hose, or spray plants with insecticidal soap, following package directions. Watch for tomato fruitworms and hornworms on plants. Check for holes in leaves or fruit and destroy any that show signs of damage. Handpick the worms and drop them into containers of soapy water. Wear gloves for this job. If you are squeamish about handling these wriggly creatures, remember that when it comes to beating pests and diseases, the end justifies the means. The taste of a sweet summer tomato will make you forget all about worms and wilts.
Flowers for Coastal Gardens
The phrase “coastal gardens” evokes a host of memorable images, billowing daisies flanking gray-shingled cottages, bright “dune roses” blooming against an ocean background, or pots of brilliant red geraniums on a wooden pier. North America has an abundance of coastal areas that are home to a wide array of coastal gardens.
Continue reading “Flowers for Coastal Gardens”
Managing the Six Worst Garden Animal Pests
Gardeners beware, the enemy is among us. Operating by stealth, they wait for opportunities to transform our gardens from points of pride to scenes of devastation. They eat our cabbages and sweet corn, destroy our hostas, and root up our tulips. They are ravenously hungry and untroubled by human scruples. Continue reading “Managing the Six Worst Garden Animal Pests”
Gardening Tips for Dog Owners
You love your dog. You love your garden. Sometimes, though, your dog and garden just don’t get along, and it is harder to feel the love. The dog follows its instincts and digs, pulls up plants, romps over delicate specimens, and relieves himself in the wrong places. You follow your instincts and get frustrated.
What can you do?
As with all things related to gardening, a little planning can prevent a lot of mayhem. Make a few adjustments to accommodate dog and animal priorities, and you can transform the garden into a place where both the resident gardener and the resident canine/s can feel comfortable.
Paths for Dogs
Create garden paths and raised bed borders to keep straying humans and dogs out of garden beds and borders. Paved walkways are the best way to prevent muddy paws, but fine gravel or mulch will also work. Avoid using cocoa bean mulch along the paths or in beds because it is toxic to dogs, and they like to eat it.
Training
Famed dog trainer, Barbara Woodhouse, famously said, “Dogs aren’t born knowing what or what not to do; they only learn like children.” Invest in proper training for your four-legged “child” so that the two of you can work together to set boundaries—literally and figuratively—for garden behavior. Training works best when you start on a puppy, but even older dogs can benefit, especially from a skilled trainer.
Training does not have to be expensive. A wide array of available books, videos, and apps can guide you through gentle, effective ways of training your dog. No matter what method you choose, the cost of training beats the trouble and expense of repairing your landscape when your furry friend misbehaves.
Planting for Dogs
Use tough plants along paths and other canine traffic areas and plant densely, because bare earth invites canine curiosity, mischief, and digging. Enrich the soil every time you plant by using a quality amendment like Fafard® Garden Manure Blend to encourage thick, leafy growth
Ornamental grasses, compact shrubs, and even sturdy, clump-forming perennials, like big-root geranium (Geranium macrorrhizum), can withstand the occasional trampling or exuberant full-body roll and survive intact. Low-boundary fencing may also help separate pets from plants.
Avoid planting species and varieties with sharp prickles or spines, and keep toxic plants confined to areas that are off-limits to your dog. For a list of toxic indoor and outdoor plants, go to the ASPCA website on toxic plants (click here to view) or read our article about the 12 Most Poisonous Plants to Avoid for Kids and Pets.
Dedicated Relief
Dogs also need places to relieve themselves. If you don’t set aside those dedicated spaces and train the dog to use them, dog waste will harm your lawn and garden. Garden sculptures and other formative yard decor are often attractive to dogs for this purpose. Better they wee on something structural than your plants. Encourage your dogs to mark the right garden areas, and they will return to those spots. Also, keep a pooper scooper handy to keep the lawn clean.
Dog Distractions
A bored canine is an unhappy canine. Keep some favorite dog toys in your garden basket or cart and use them to entertain the dog while you plant, weed, and water. Taking a moment to give your dog a chew toy or throw a ball is much better than watching pup munch the stems of your prize coneflowers and daisies.
Exercise
Humans get flabby and unhappy without sufficient exercise, and dogs are no different. Walk your dog at least forty-five minutes every day, or hire someone else to do so when time is at a premium. Space permitting; install an enclosed dog run in a corner of your yard, with a latched gate and appropriate shelter for dogs that stay outside periods. A dog that gets regular exercise is less likely to tear up the iris bed or uproot the tomatoes.
One of the most celebrated gardeners and dog lovers was the late English plantsman, Christopher Lloyd, who rarely set foot in his garden at Great Dixter without his faithful dachshunds. Less famous gardeners agree that canine companionship is good for the psyche and may also deter plant predators like rabbits, groundhogs, and deer. Even if your dog only wags his tail at rabbits and groundhogs, if he is happy, chances are you will be happy, and the garden will be a better place all the way around.
Technicolor Gardening: Vibrant Garden Flowers
Sometimes gardening life is just a little too pastel and predictable. A day dawns when all those pale pinks, powdery blues, and dreamy pale yellows look washed out, and you yearn for exuberant flowers that pop out of beds and containers with bursts of bright color. By adding a few “technicolor” flowers with deep, saturated colors, you can create explosions in the garden without scaring the neighbors. (Those same neighbors will probably also enjoy the bees, butterflies, and other pollinators drawn to your vibrant blooms.) Continue reading “Technicolor Gardening: Vibrant Garden Flowers”
Growing Scented Geraniums
Citronella-scented geranium deters mosquitoes.
In the centuries before sewers and daily bathing were common, rank odors were everywhere. That is probably why Europeans were so excited when scented geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) first arrived from their native South Africa in the early 17th century. With aromatic leaves exuding the fragrance of roses, citrus, or spice, the plants were immediately pressed into service as weapons in the ongoing battle against undesirable smells.
Scented Geranium History
Some of the earliest scented geranium specimens were shipped to Holland by the Dutch East India Company and found their way into the hands of Dutch plant breeders, who propagated and crossbred them. Rose-scented types, especially the intensely fragrant Pelargonium graveolens ‘Attar of Roses’, were eventually produced in mass quantities for the perfume industry. By the Victorian era, the number of varieties had exploded, and the fragrant plants had become garden and conservatory staples. After a dip in popularity in the 20th century, the attractive and intoxicating plants are enjoying a renaissance, with 80 or more varieties available from specialty nurseries, like Mountain Valley Growers.
Scented Geranium Types
Scented geraniums are members of the Pelargonium genus, just like the common backyard and window box flowers that gardeners have loved for generations. In the case of fragrant types, tiny hairs on leaves and stems produce the various characteristic scents.
The plants are loosely grouped into five fragrance categories, including:
rose, citrus, mint, spice and “pungent” (with overtones of camphor, eucalyptus, or other strong, woodsy or medicinal aromas). The rose, citrus, and mint fragrances seem to be the strongest, with others like apricot and chocolate, registering more subtly. A fifth category, oak-leaf, comprises varieties bred from the Pelargonium quercifolium species, featuring oak-like leaves that bear distinctive, sometimes citrusy, or pungent scents. In all cases, the scents are most noticeable when you rub leaves between your fingers or brush by the plants on a sunny day.
While common geraniums are grown for their big, showy flowerheads, scented types feature smaller blooms and rely largely on the allure of sweet-smelling leaves. Those leaves vary from small and deeply dissected, like those of the classic lemon-scented P. crispum, to the scalloped and almost tomato-like foliage of the heavenly-smelling P. graveolens ‘Rober’s Lemon Rose’. Plants can be relatively slender and erect, or short and squat, and some varieties may sport variegated leaves. A few, like P. x fragrans ‘Logeei’, feature a cascading habit that works well in hanging baskets. The unscented flowers bloom in shades of cream, pink, red and purple, with bi-colored varieties marked with contrasting blotches.
Some of the most popular scented varieties include: Pelargonium graveolens ‘Lady Plymouth’, with large, cream-edged leaves and a rose fragrance; P. ‘Citronella’, with a lemon scent that is reputed to repel mosquitoes; P. graveolens ‘Old Fashioned Rose’, with purple flowers and an intense rose fragrance; P. fragrans ‘Old Spice’, reminiscent of the famous men’s cologne, and ‘Apple’, with a distinctive fruity aroma.
Growing Scented Geraniums
Scented geraniums are easy to grow and can get along well in a sunny window in cold winter climates. Most appreciate a summer vacation outdoors—either in containers or garden beds– beginning when night temperatures rise above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
To grow these fragrant plants, start with a good potting mix, like Fafard® Ultra Container Mix with Extended Feed, lightened with an equal amount of Fafard® Premium Natural & Organic Compost. Unglazed clay pots work better than plastic ones, allowing the soil to dry out more quickly. Water only when the top of the soil feels dry. Fertilize bi-weekly with 1/2 teaspoon of water soluble fertilizer per gallon of water. In winter, when plant growth slows, discontinue fertilizing. Prune plants periodically to maintain fuller growth.
The Victorians found that fresh rose or lemon geranium leaves added distinction to foods. The flavors are not overwhelming, but lend delicate notes to cakes, custards and other baked goods. Bury leaves in a closed sugar container for a few days and then use the flavored sugar to enhance the taste of teas or cold beverages. Elsewhere in the household, dry the leaves until crumbly to hold their scents in sachets and potpourris.
As landscape plants, scented geraniums work especially well in herb gardens, containers, and raised beds. For maximum enjoyment, position them close to paths or entry areas, where visitors can brush the leaves and liberate their unique fragrances.
It is thought that geraniums’ scented leaves evolved as a defense against plant predators. Many centuries later, they attract plant lovers.
The Best Spring Anemones
Winter winds leave an untidy legacy in the early spring garden. Cleaning up those broken branches and dead leaves is a chore, but the job is a lot more pleasant if you have another kind of “wind” tickling the toes of your garden clogs—windflowers or spring anemones. Planted in borders or containers, they emerge just as the garden gets going.
All anemones are members of the buttercup or Ranunculaceae family. Several species sprout from fall-planted rhizomes and spread politely when they are happy. The blooms can be demure or relatively showy, with foliage that is most often attractively dissected. Deer tend to leave anemones alone, but early spring pollinators, who use the flowers as a much-needed food source, love them all.
Greek Delight
Little Grecian windflower (Anemone blanda) is often the earliest riser among the windflowers, generally appearing in late March or early April. Growing only 6 to 9 inches tall, blanda anemones are so tough that they can even be planted beneath black walnut trees. The flowers look more like daisies than buttercups, with nine to twelve petal-like sepals in shades of violet-blue, pink, or white. The leaves are almost fern-like in appearance and add a flourish to the flowers.
Grecian windflowers rhizomes are most often available in mixed assortments, but with a little hunting, you can also buy single colors. An old favorite variety, ‘White Splendor’, bears clean white sepals that harmonize well with other spring flowers, and the classic Blue Shades mix comes in pretty shades of violet blue. Grecian windflowers are very effective planted in drifts or naturalized in wooded areas and coexist well with other plants. This is a bonus, given their ephemeral nature. Once the plant has bloomed and set seed, it fades away completely until the following spring.
A Different Kind of Snowdrop
Snowdrop windflower (Anemone sylvestris) is another April bloomer. The flowers sit atop stems that may reach up to 18 inches tall. Each delicate flower has slightly ruffled white sepals that surround prominent yellow stamens. The petals are followed up by distinctive, fuzzy white seed heads later on. Sometimes snowdrop windflowers give an encore performance in the fall. With their longer stems and sweet fragrance, these anemones also make good cut flowers.
Wind in the Woods
In April and May, wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa) emerges. The plants are a little taller than Grecian windflowers, with darker green, dissected foliage and erect stems that rise between 6 and 18 inches. Those dainty petal-like sepals are generally white, at least on the wild form. Sometimes they are tinged pink or palest blue. Specialty nurseries carry more unusual forms of wood anemone, including some with blue, pink or even yellow-green flowers. Double-petaled forms, like ‘Alba Plena’ are only an Internet search away.
Showy in the Spring
Poppy anemones (Anemone coronaria) are the showiest of the spring bloomers and tend to appear a little later in spring. Deep blue, red, pink, or white petal-like sepals surround dramatic black or blue-black centers on flowers that bloom atop stalks up to 18 inches tall. Because of their bold good looks, poppy anemones have long been favorites of flower arranging.
Among the most popular poppy anemone varieties are the de Caen types, which bear single flowers and are usually sold in mixed-color assortments. Other old favorites include the deep blue-purple ‘Mr. Fokker’ and pristine white ‘Mount Everest’, which has semi-double flowers.
Unlike other spring-blooming anemones, coronaria varieties are only reliably hardy within USDA plant hardiness zones 7-10 (though some cultivars like ‘Mr. Fokker’ are reportedly hardier), so the tubers cannot be planted outside in cold-winter climates. If you have an unheated sun porch or cold frame, plant them in pots in the fall, place in the frost free spaces, and bring them outside in the spring. Otherwise, plant in very early spring for late spring or early summer bloom.
Windflower Culture
All spring-blooming anemones like rich, well-drained soil. Wood and snowdrop varieties prefer partially shady situations, while Grecian and poppy anemones relish more sunshine. If your soil is poor or poorly frost-free end it with a high-quality product like Fafard® Premium Natural & Organic Compost. Soak the tuberous rhizomes of Grecian, snowdrop, and wood anemones overnight before planting. If you are planting Grecian windflowers naturalizing, place the rhizomes close together, and they will eventually spread on their own.
You can find windflowers alongside the tulip and daffodil bulbs on retailers’ shelves starting in early fall. Poppy anemones are generally available for spring shipment.
Starting School Gardens
What do famed chef, Alice Waters, celebrated anthropologist Jane Goodall, and actress Meryl Streep have in common? All support school gardening initiatives that not only teach children how to grow food but serve as outdoor learning centers and launch pads for lessons in everything from math to creative writing. From the Julien Elementary School Garden in Turlock, California, to Matty’s Garden at the Matthew Whaley Elementary School in Williamsburg, Virginia, the Edible Schoolyard movement is spreading like summer crabgrass. School gardens of every size, shape, and composition are springing up in urban, suburban, and rural school districts all over the country.
Celebrity endorsers and patrons are nice but not necessary to start a successful school gardening program. The critical components are adult vision, student involvement, and the ability to muster enough resources to establish and sustain the garden. If you think you can combine those elements, you are ready to get started.
It Takes a Village
School gardens often start with a single person: a parent, teacher or administrator with a passion for gardening. But, no one—especially not a successful school garden organizer—gardens alone. Start by engaging others, including school personnel, parents, and students. Work on refining the garden idea. Listen to everyone. Define the purpose of the garden and what kinds of crops you want to grow.
Successful school gardens often combine food and ornamental crops, with the ornamentals providing visual appeal and attracting essential pollinators, such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. (Click here to learn how to create a butterfly garden.) Use some of the many online school gardening resources to help in the planning process.
Choosing a Site
Gardeners and gardening educators know that location is everything. Pick a sunny space on school property and make sure that space is reasonably close to a reliable water supply. If the soil in the designated spot is extremely compacted or contaminated, amend the soil with a quality amendment, like Fafard Premium Natural & Organic Compost. You might also think about using raised beds or containers filled with high-quality planting mix like Fafard® Natural & Organic Potting Soil. Large, well-watered containers will also work beautifully if the only available site is covered in asphalt.
Plan and Permission
Before seeking approval from school authorities, your team should develop a clear, logical plan that includes as much of the stakeholders’ feedback as possible, plus practical and logistical considerations. The plan should also include a mission statement and information about the garden’s purpose, goals, size, and proposed location. Create estimates of the necessary resources—financial and human—needed for set-up and ongoing operation.
Focus on maintenance, making sure to include provisions for watering and upkeep during periods when school is not in session. (It may help to recruit a team of volunteers to help with upkeep.) Your goals may be lofty, but keep the overall plan simple and present it in a positive way with as many stakeholders present as possible. Be responsive to school authorities’ concerns and be prepared to make plan revisions.
Funding
You are going to need funding for garden supplies and seeds or starter plants. Many school gardens start with a contribution from the PTA or other parent organization. Local businesses may also be willing to donate supplies or at least provide discounts. Dedicated, well-publicized fundraisers are another possible funding avenue.
You can also seek out grant opportunities, some of the best being offered by Kids Gardening. This exceptional kids’ gardening program also offers additional educational resources to help educators and parents start school gardens.
With all of these pieces in place, you should be able to start a thriving school gardening program. There’s no better way to help kids learn and get them outdoors.
Eight Hard-to-Kill House Plants
The best house plants add a lot of life to indoor spaces without adding extra hours to the day because they require as little fuss as possible. Their benefits are most notable in winter when the need for green, living things is the greatest. Only plastic plants are completely un-killable, but the following hard-to-kill eight need little, give a lot, and thrive under normal household conditions.
Aloe vera
A cut Aloe vera leaf exudes a substance that soothes minor burns, a quality that has made this succulent plant a longtime kitchen staple. Its other virtues include an attractive clump of erect, grey-green leaves with serrated edges that are complemented in summer by tall spikes of tubular yellow flowers. Aloes increase freely by offsets or pups, creating new plants that can be separated from the mother plants and given away to friends and family. Best of all, the plants accomplish all that on a minimum of water and care.
Place your aloe in bright, direct sunlight (at least 6-hours a day) and water only when the soil is nearly dry. Plants can withstand partial sun, but they will perform poorly in shade. When moving aloes outdoors in summer, slowly acclimate them to full sun conditions to avoid leaf scald.
Spider Plant
A favorite since Victorian times, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) works well on tall plant stands or in hanging baskets that allow the perky spiders (offshoots of plantlets) to cascade over the sides. The long, slender leaves, which also help purify indoor air, may be all green or striped with white or yellow and arch gracefully outward. Tiny white summer flowers are a nice bonus, as are the stems of young spider-like plantlets that form at the flowering stems.
Detach and pot plantlet separately when they reach about 2-inches across or keep them tethered to the parent plant, and place each “spider” atop a small pot filled with Fafard Professional Potting Mix. It will root readily. Spider plants thrive in bright, indirect light. Water regularly but do not allow their soil to become too wet.
Christmas Cactus
The familiar Christmas or holiday cactus (Schlumbergera spp.) is sometimes also called crab cactus for its spreading growth habit. An epiphytic (tree-dwelling plant) cactus with arching, segmented leaves, it produces claw-like flowers of vivid red, pink, orange, cream, or purple at the ends of the stems in late fall to midwinter. These are true cacti, though they lack sharp spines.
Holiday cactus will flourish as long as they receive bright light and their yearly watering schedule is met. After flowering, plants should be watered very minimally for a period of three months. Then from mid-spring to summer, water them regularly when the soil feels dry down to 2-inches depth; in this time they will put on a new flush of foliage. In early fall, place them in a cool place and reduce watering once more, until you see flower buds on the plants. Then keep them regularly irrigated again until flowering ceases. (Click here to read more about growing Christmas cactus.)
Sansevieria
You may call it snake plant or even mother-in-law’s tongue, but whatever the common name, Sansevieria trifasciata is an indoor standby. Its bold, lance-shaped foliage stands erect, generally reaching about 2-feet tall in sunny indoor situations. If your snake plant summers outdoors, place the container in sun to light shade. The leaf markings that inspired the snake in its name are gray-green against a lighter green background. Though it rarely happens indoors, sansevieria produces greenish-white flowers in spring, followed by orange berries later. The plants appreciate regular watering from spring to fall but reduce watering significantly in winter.
English Ivy
Outdoors, English ivy (Hedera helix) can be lovely, but virtually uncontrollable. Grown indoors in containers, it has better manners. Numerous cultivars, including many with interesting variegation and smaller leaves, are available from garden centers. Because of its expansive nature, ivy works well as a filler for large containers or in hanging baskets. As with many other house plants, it prefers bright indirect light. Watering should be regular and the potting mixture should not be allowed to dry out. When the ivy becomes too unruly, simply trim it to shape. Vines need to grow to a great height to flower and fruit, so indoor specimens never flower.
Jade Plant
The jade plant (Crassula ovata), sometimes called a jade tree because of its gray trunk-like stems, is actually a branching, succulent shrub from southern Africa. The plump, glossy, oval-shaped leaves are its chief glory and sometimes have a slight reddish tinge, especially when grown in high sunlight. Indoor jades will occasionally produce small, starry, pinkish-white flowers as well. Container grown specimens may reach up to 30 inches tall and prefer bright light indoors and partial shade outside. Water when the soil feels dry down to a finger-length depth. (Click here to read more about jade plants.)
Golden Pothos
Golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a striking foliage plant with big, heart-shaped leaves, marbled or golden-green. In the wild, it is a vigorous climbing vine, but as a civilized houseplant, it grows no more than 6- to 8-feet long. If you want it even smaller, it can also be kept in check by periodic trimming. Because of its good looks and vining nature, the big-leafed plant is useful for hanging baskets, plant stands, and large containers. Bright indirect light, evenly moist soil, and occasional stem pinching will keep it full and healthy.
Cast Iron Plant
True to its tough nickname, cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) can survive shade, neglect, and climate conditions that would send many other plants into fatal swoons. Like spider plant, it was beloved by Victorians and is still a hit today. With green or variegated lance-shaped leaves that sprout on long petioles or leaf stems, mature aspidistra may grow to 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. The plants grow slowly and flower infrequently indoors. If flowers appear, they are purple and lurk near beneath the leaves. Aspidistras grow best with regular watering but will survive with little moisture.
Care and Feeding
Hard-to-kill houseplants need little help to look great if you start with good care. Average house plants require a high-quality mix like Fafard® Professional Potting Mix or Fafard® Ultra Potting Mix with Extended Feed, to ensure good growth and success. Established plants should be fed intermittently with diluted all-purpose fertilizer. More succulent house plants, like aloe, snake plant, jade, and Christmas cactus require mix with excellent drainage, so lighten consider lightening the potting mix with equal amounts of perlite. Succulents are accustomed to lean rations and need little additional fertilizer.