Author: Elisabeth Ginsburg

Born into a gardening family, Elisabeth Ginsburg grew her first plants as a young child. Her hands-on experiences range from container gardening on a Missouri balcony to mixed borders in the New Jersey suburbs and vacation gardening in Central New York State. She has studied horticulture at the New York Botanical Garden and elsewhere and has also written about gardens, landscape history and ecology for years in traditional and online publications including The New York Times Sunday “Cuttings” column, the Times Regional Weeklies, Horticulture, Garden Design, Flower & Garden, The Christian Science Monitor and many others. Her “Gardener’s Apprentice” weekly column appears in papers belonging to the Worrall chain of suburban northern and central New Jersey weekly newspapers and online at http://www.gardenersapprentice.com. She and her feline “garden supervisors” live in northern New Jersey.

10 Common Garden Flowers that Feed Birds

Coneflower seeds are a favorite of goldfinches.

Birds–chirping, whistling, and singing—are integral contributors to the daily symphony of garden sounds. Their presence is also a sign of a healthy ecosystem. Attract them by using the right combination of flowering plants and focusing on a succession of blooms and seeds. The end result will be a beautiful landscape and a smorgasbord for birds.

The majority of bird-friendly blooms need sunny space, though a few, like allium and black-eyed Susan, can flourish in light shade. Some species will thrive in the leanest soil, while others prefer a growing medium enriched with organic material like Fafard Premium Natural & Organic Compost.

Zinnias, cosmos, marigolds and other prolific annuals are “cut and come again” flowers, producing fresh flowers over and over again after deadheading or cutting. In fact, the biggest dilemma for bird and bloom-loving gardeners may be whether to enjoy cut flowers or let them set seeds for hungry birds. When in doubt, plant enough for both uses and refrain from deadheading at the end of the gardening season.

The ten flowering plants below are among the best at providing beauty, ease of culture, and food for avian visitors.

Spring Flowers for Birds

Golden groundsel has seeds that feed birds. Birds also eat the spring pollinators they attract.

Golden Groundsel (Packera aurea, Zones 3-9): The native golden-yellow flowers of golden groundsel are repellant to troublesome garden critters like deer and rabbits, but magnetic for pollinators and birds. Their golden-yellow clusters of daisies attract lots of pollinators (some of which birds eat) and brighten partially sunny to shaded beds and look great in woodland gardens. Flowering may start in mid-spring and continue to late spring. Leave the fluffy white seed heads for the birds to enjoy! Plants may spread, so give them space to move.

Many birds enjoy eating cornflower seeds.

Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus): Annual cornflower, sometimes known as ‘bachelor buttons”, is an old-fashioned annual that blooms from May through July. The most common cornflower color is bright blue, but some varieties may also sport blue-purple, dark purple, white or pink flowers. Gardeners with poor soil can succeed with these bird-friendly blooms because they prefer lean conditions. Like other annuals, cornflowers will respond to cutting by producing more blooms. From a bird’s perspective, the sooner the flowers go to seed the better, so make sure to let that happen. The seed that the birds leave behind or drop will produce a new crop the following year.

Summer Flowers for Birds

Cosmos attract insects that feed birds, and their seeds are also highly nutritious to many bird species.

Common Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus): Blooming from the beginning of summer through frost, this annual is among the most cheerful members of the daisy family or Asteraceae (formerly Compositae). The longtime garden favorite bears familiar saucer-shaped flowers with white, pink, or rose petals surrounding golden centers. Some varieties, like those in the Double Click series, feature double blooms. The leaves are fern-like, accenting slender stems that may be anywhere from 1 to 4 feet tall. Like bachelor buttons, cosmos favor lean soil and good drainage. For color variation, try Cosmos sulphureus, with yellow, orange, or orange-red petals. Birds will have no trouble finding these tall beauties, which rise between 2 and 6 feet.

Zinnia seeds are a nutritious bird favorite, so leave up those seedheads in fall!

Zinnias (Zinnia species and hybrids): The world of annual zinnias is wide, encompassing varieties in just about every color except for brown and blue. Heights range from ground-hugging (6 inches) to 4 feet tall. Some of the most popular are tall zinnias (Zinnia elegans). All zinnias bear bright, daisy-like flowers, borne on somewhat coarse, hairy stems adorned with elongated green leaves. Pinching back the stems of young zinnia plants encourages branching, making more flowers for you and the birds. Zinnias will also bloom from early summer through frost but are sometimes prone to powdery mildew, a fungal disease. Avoid crowding the plants, as good air circulation discourages powdery mildew.

Coneflowers: Once upon a time, if you wanted a perennial coneflower (Echinacea spp.), your options were limited to the lovely blooms of purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea). Now perennial coneflowers have become the darlings of the horticultural world and choices abound. Petal colors range from white, like the lovely ‘White Swan’, through a range of yellows, peach, pink, orange, and red, with bi-colors, like the fetching ‘Green Twister’ thrown in for good measure. Many of the newer coneflowers are also fragrant, an added plus. The one thing that they all have in common is large, cone-shaped centers filled with seeds. Goldfinches, in particular, love them.

Marigold seeds are numerous and feed birds.

Marigolds: Annual marigolds (Tagetes spp.) are easy to grow and, tolerant of a range of conditions. Tall types, usually varieties of Tagetes erecta or African marigold, may reach a height of up to 4 feet tall, with large flower heads of cream, yellow, or yellow-orange petals. Blooming through the summer, both flowers and stems are aromatic and quite effective at repelling deer and other garden pests. Low-growing French marigolds (Tagetes patula) have all the virtues of their taller relations, but top out at 6 to 12 inches—perfect for containers, small spaces, and border edgings. When flowerheads are left intact for bird consumption, marigolds will self-seed readily.

Nutritious seeds are the main attraction of black-eyed-Susans, so keep your seedheads up in fall.

Black-Eyed Susans: An old-time favorite, black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.) flowers from mid to late summer. Native to North America, the plants may be biennial or perennial, but all feature prominent seed-filled cones that attract birds, especially finches and chickadees. One of the most popular garden “Susans” is Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’, a reliable perennial that is widely available in garden centers and features some of the largest flowers. In general, black-eyed Susans can flourish in a wide variety of soil conditions and may even tolerate light shade.

A scarlet tanager looks for insects on a sunflower head.

Annual Sunflowers: It is hard not to love annual sunflowers (Helianthus annuus), which are held in high esteem by humans, mammals, and birds. With broad, open flower faces and statuesque profiles, drought and heat-tolerant sunflowers, are also among the easiest plants to grow from seed. Breeders have worked hard to expand the range of available sizes and colors. Petals can be cream, shades of yellow, gold, orange, or russet, with bicolors popping up on the market every year. All have seed-filled centers. The big leaves may look ragged by summer’s end, but the flowerheads more than make up for that. Container gardeners do not have to miss out on the flowers, or the birds, because shorter varieties like ‘Little Becky” topping out at about 3 feet.

Autumn Finale

Chickadees eat visiting insects and seeds of asters.

Asters: Perennial asters (Symphyotrichum spp., Eurybia spp. and Aster spp.) are no longer grouped under one species name, but they all feature daisy-like blooms in shades ranging from white through a host of pinks and roses to blues and blue-purples. For visual impact, you can’t beat traditional New England asters (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae). Upright and leafy, they may grow up to 6 feet tall, but can also be kept shorter with judicious pruning earlier in the growing season. Shorter asters, like the Woods series (‘Purple’, ‘Blue’ and ‘Pink’) have the same winsome flowers beloved of both people and birds but feature shorter stature (up to 18 inches). Butterflies relish the flowers’ nectar and birds feast on the autumn seeds.

Perennial sunflowers are essential late-bloomers for feeding birds.

Perennial Sunflowers: Drought-tolerant and versatile, sedums have really caught on with gardeners. Whether you choose tall varieties like the much-loved ‘Autumn Joy’ or shorter ones, like ‘Wildfire’, sedums feature flowerheads of small, star-shaped blooms that draw butterflies. Hanging around throughout fall, when other flowering plants have long since given up, sedums attract birds like finches with their plump seedheads. If you can, avoid cutting back sedums until spring clean-up.

Many of these garden flowers naturally self-sow from year to year, so allow a few seedlings to provide more bird food and beauty to future gardens.

Homegrown Mints for Cooling Libations: Mojitos and Juleps

Mojitos have become a favorite tart, herbal summer drink!

Parched summer palates demand refreshments that are icy cold, wet, and flavorful. For sophisticated adult palates, the mojito, a classic Cuban cocktail, and the julep, beloved in the American South, check all the right summer boxes. Mint, muddled or crushed with sugar prior to the addition of liquid ingredients, adds distinctive flavor notes to these drinks.

But, which mint is best for an authentic mojito or traditional julep? The Mentha genus is large and full of popular varieties and hybrids. That kind of abundance is a blessing for cooks and cocktail makers, but it can also be daunting. The mints below are the best choices for these fabled libations.

The Mojito: A Taste of Havana

There are many origin stories associated with the mojito (click here for the traditional Havana-style recipe), but one thing is clear–it was popularized by novelist Ernest Hemingway, who first enjoyed it in the 1950s at a favorite Havana bar. The cocktail’s fame spread, and by 2002, even super-spy James Bond tossed one back in the film Die Another Day.

A classic mojito embodies the flavor of the Caribbean in a fizzy mix of white rum, lime juice, mint, sugar, and club soda or sparkling water. Ice cubes keep the drink cold. Nonalcoholic versions omit the rum.

Spearmint was the preferred mint for drinks in the early 20th century.

Until early in the 21st century, mixologists looking for mint to flavor mojitos often used spearmint (Mentha spicata), which has a familiar, piquant mint flavor. Some drink makers also used peppermint (Mentha x piperita), but the mint flavor in peppermint leaves is much stronger and spicier than that of spearmint.

Around 2006, Cuban mint (Mentha x villosa), native to the island, began making appearances in the United States, and bartenders started using this “original” mojito mint in the rum drinks. Since that time, Cuban mint has become more readily available, especially for those who are willing to grow their own.

Mint connoisseurs say that Cuban mint has a somewhat milder flavor than spearmint, along with citrus notes that marry well with the lime juice in the cocktail.

Jubilant Mint Juleps

Frosty mint juleps were originally served in silver cups but glass is also used these days.

The mint julep (click here for the traditional recipe from the Kentucky Derby) comes with its own collection of romantic and/or evocative stories, featuring a cast of larger-than-life characters ranging from Andrew Jackson to Teddy Roosevelt, William Faulkner, and Ernest Hemingway (a prodigious cocktail consumer). The drink, traditionally served in a frosty silver or pewter cup, is a popular hot-weather tipple all over the South (and elsewhere) but is most often associated with the Kentucky Derby. It has been the official cocktail of the Derby since 1983, and hundreds of thousands of them have been served to racegoers ever since.

Juleps were originally served in silver cups, like this antique one.

Juleps are traditionally made with bourbon, mint, sugar, and lots of shaved or crushed ice. Julep aficionados might argue that quality bourbon is the most important component, but the mint also plays a defining role. In many recipes, the instructions simply refer to “mint leaves”, without reference to specific types. Overall, the most common mint for juleps is spearmint, which harmonizes nicely with both the sugar and the bourbon.

In a bow to tradition and the Derby, one variety of spearmint, with especially large leaves, was named ‘Kentucky Colonel’, however, any spearmint will work well in the drink.

Other Mint Options

Variegated pineapple mint is tasty and pretty.

Cocktail purists might frown, but you can enhance the flavors of mojitos and juleps with other mints, according to personal taste. Mojitos, with their lime flavor components, might include lime-scented peppermint (Mentha x piperata f. citrata ‘Lime’). While a challenge to hallowed tradition might just be enough to scare the horses at Churchill Downs, julep lovers who like the combination of mint and chocolate can flavor their drinks with chocolate mint (Mentha x piperata ‘Chocolate’). It is pretty and tastes sensational. The chocolate flavor is mild but discernible. The pretty variegated pineapple mint (Mentha suaveolens ‘Variegata’) is another sweet variety to try for a fruity twist.

Grow Your Own Cocktail Mixers

Chocolate mint is my favorite for drinks!

Whether you are making mojitos or juleps, mint is extremely easy to grow. Start from seed, young nursery plants, or cuttings from an established plant. Cuttings from mint family members, including spearmint and Cuban mint, will root quickly in a glass of water and can then be transplanted to soil-filled containers.

Mint’s vigor may also be its greatest liability in garden situations. In rich, moist soil mint spreads rapidly and may take over increasingly large areas in beds and borders. To keep the plants within bounds, grow them in containers filled with a good potting medium, like Fafard Natural and Organic Potting Mix. You can sink the containers in the ground, or simply keep them near the kitchen door for those times when you want to make mojitos, juleps, or other minty specialties.

Always pot mint plants to keep them from taking over.

Harvest mint leaves regularly, as this keeps mints compact and full. Aim to harvest before the plants flower, as flowering tends to make the mature leaves somewhat bitter. If you can’t use those leaves right away, preserve them by air drying or freezing. Homegrown, preserved mint almost always tastes better than the dried product available on store shelves.

Mints die back to the ground in cold climates but return in spring and also self-seed readily. You can also bring potted specimens indoors, and overwinter them on sunny windowsills. Take cuttings from those plants in spring and root them, ensuring that you will have a supply of healthy young specimens for the growing season.

Growing Gooseberries and Currants

In Europe, people have long celebrated the unique flavors of gooseberries and their colorful relatives, currants. Children drink Ribena and adults enjoy kir cocktails, both made with black currants. At breakfast, many people spread red currant jelly on their toast. Later in the day, they may enjoy a gooseberry fool, an old-fashioned dessert made with sweetened gooseberries, cream, and custard.

Fruitful European gooseberries (Ribes uva-crispa, USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8) and red and black currants (Ribes rubrum and R. nigrum, Zones 3-7) are less popular in America, though our country boasts some appealing native varieties, but times are changing. In the midst of those changes, you can grow both delicious members of the Ribes family in your home garden and revel in a bountiful harvest of tart summer fruits for jams, jellies, pies, and other desserts.

White Pine Blister Rust Resistance

Ribes host WPBR, which quickly kills white pines.

One factor that is making these European berries more accessible to American gardeners is the prevalence of those that are resistant to the dreaded White Pine Blister Rust (WPBR). Currants, especially black currants, and gooseberries can be alternate host plants for the disease, and while it does not kill Ribes, it devastates American white pine trees (Pinus strobus), a valuable timber species. For this reason, gooseberries and currants have been banned for commercial and garden growing in some areas of the country where white pines are prevalent or grown for timber. Because these bans are still in place, only WPBR-resistant varieties will be highlighted in this article.

Gooseberries

Native to the British Isles, Europe, and western Asia, European gooseberry shrubs bear juicy, striated, round to ovoid fruits with a grape-like appearance. Depending on the variety, those fruits may be red, purple yellow, white, or near black, but the most recognizable gooseberries are pale green. The fruits appear on the thorny (sometimes thornless) stems of rounded shrubs that can be anywhere from 2 to 5 feet tall and 3 to 6 feet wide. The small lobed leaves are green and sometimes have fall color. In early spring, small, five-petaled flowers appear, eventually giving way to late spring or early summer fruit.

Good WPBR-resistant varieties include the red-fruited hybrid ‘Captivator‘ and bright-green fruited ‘Pixwell‘. All gooseberries are high in Vitamin C and best eaten cooked with added sugar to balance their tartness.

Gooseberries are attractive shrubs with small, lobed leaves.

Gooseberries have been cultivated in their native regions for centuries and during that time vigorous varieties sometimes escaped from gardens to mingle with wild gooseberries in hedgerows and other untended areas. Wild birds enjoy the fruits as much as we do and spread their seeds. Here in North America, European gooseberries probably arrived with some of the first colonists, who planted them for a taste of home. (There are some edible American Ribes species, but they never gained culinary popularity.)

The small white or pinkish flowers of gooseberries are pollinated by bees.

Gooseberries grow best in light shade to full sun in well-drained, loamy soil. We recommend amending poor garden soils with Fafard Garden Compost Blend before planting these berries. Many commercially available varieties are self-fertile, meaning that there is no need to grow a second gooseberry bush to ensure pollination by bees. Young fruit tends to be tart, but the berries sweeten up when left longer on the shrubs. Since local birds and wildlife may also enjoy the taste of your gooseberries, it may be a good idea to invest in some protective netting to deter them as the fruit ripens.

Annual or semi-annual pruning to eliminate weak or dead stems will help keep both gooseberries and currants healthy and productive.

Currants

Red currants (Ribes rubrum) and black currants (Ribes nigrum) are native to northern parts of Europe, Asia, and North America, and were known and used here by Native Americans. Colonists also brought favorite varieties from their home countries, and bushes were first offered for sale in a commercial nursery in 1770. By the late 19th century, currants were produced commercially as well as in-home gardens.

Growing on shrubs that reach 3 to 5 feet in height and width, currants are distinguishable from gooseberries by their thornless canes and smaller, rounder fruits that are produced in colorful clusters that dangle. The green, lobed leaves are much like those of gooseberries. Currants are tart, sweet, and can be eaten fresh or in desserts and jellies.

Though ripening times may vary a bit depending on variety, most currants bear fruit in early summer. While many red and black currant varieties yield abundant harvests, it takes time for currants to become established. Expect fruit after about three years.

White currants are colorless varieties of red currants.

Though the Latin name, Ribes rubrum, refers to red fruit, some red currant varieties, including the WPBR-resistant ‘Imperial White’, bear white fruit. Pink currants, like ‘Pink Champagne’ (not WPBR-resistant) result from crosses between red and white varieties. Traditionalists can choose vigorous classic red-berried plants, such as the WPBR-resistant ‘Red Lake‘.

Ribes nigrum shrubs produce black fruits. We recommend the Scottish ‘Ben Sarek‘, which is resistant to the White Pine Blister Rust disease. ‘Consort‘ and ‘Titania‘ are also resistant, according to Ohio State University. One for beauty as well as fruit is ‘Crandall’, a highly ornamental black currant variety that bears fragrant spring flowers and has brilliant red fall leaves.

Cultural requirements for currants are similar to those for gooseberries. Currants are also self-fertile, but if you are growing multiple shrubs of either currants or gooseberries, space them 3 feet apart.

The plants are not always tolerant of hot summers. Gardeners in areas with high summer temperatures should plant the shrubs in light shade and keep them well watered in hot weather.

Jostaberries

For an intriguing combination of gooseberry and currant, grow jostaberry (Ribes x nidigrolaria), a hybrid of gooseberry and black currant varieties. The shrubs have the thornless nature of currants, with large, near-black fruit combining flavor notes from both parent species. Shrub size and cultural requirements are similar to those of currants and gooseberries.

Be Aware of Federal and State Bans

The severity of White Pine Blister Rust (WPBR), which arrived in the United States in the 1890s, means that non-resistant currants and gooseberries are banned in some areas. In 1911, the spread of WPBR resulted in a Federal government ban on the importation and cultivation of currants and gooseberries. In 1966, the Federal quarantine was lifted, but many states continued to restrict the cultivation of the fruits. A number of states have now also eased restrictions, while breeders have developed disease-resistant cultivars.

Before you invest in gooseberries or currants, check with your local cooperative extension service or state department of agriculture about any restrictions in your state or region. Red currants and gooseberries are generally less restricted than black currants.

The Ten Most Beautiful Edibles

Ornamental vegetables look pretty when planted in tidy, geometric arrangements.

The traditional French potager, or kitchen garden, combined both edible and ornamental elements to create beds that were both beautiful and productive. Given the array of fruit, vegetable, and herb varieties available now, just about anyone can do the same thing.

Grow The Edibles That You Love

Where should you start? As always, grow what you love, starting with edible varieties that you most want to eat. There is no point in raising a beautiful zucchini if you hate that vegetable. Once you know what you want to grow, search through garden centers, online, and catalog vendors to find the most beautiful varieties. Remember that some plants have lovely leaves, others sprout gorgeous flowers, and still, others boast flashy stems. A few combine all of those things.

Next, decide whether you want to grow from seed or buy as small starter plants. Starter plants get larger sooner, but the selection of varieties may be smaller. Growing from seed requires more patience, but the choices are larger. Your potager can be beautiful either way.

The Ten Most Beautiful Edible Crops

Bushy Blueberries

Jelly Bean® is beautiful and produces lots of delicious berries. (Image by Bushel and Berry®)

Blueberries are three-season stunners, sporting bell-shaped pinkish-white flowers in spring, glaucous blue fruits in early summer, and bright red fall leaves. The most widely grown and hybridized type is the highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum), including the popular large-fruited ‘Chandler’, but these tend to be leggier and less bushy. For tidy, attractive landscape shrubs with loads of berries, the better option is lowbush (Vaccinium angustifolium) types, like ‘Top Hat’, which is compact, bushy, and has nice, dense, foliage. Container and small-space gardeners may prefer designer varieties, like the boxwood-like Jelly Bean®, which grows only 12 to 24 inches tall and wide, bears lots of small berries, and has flame-red fall color. All crave fast-draining, acid soil, and full sun.

Personnel at your local garden center can help you choose species and varieties suitable to your region and space situation.

Feathery Fennel

Bulb fennel is delicious and its feathery foliage and white bulbs look striking in a garden or container.

Anise-flavored fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), a member of the carrot family, is a beautiful garden plant in either its green or purple-leafed (Foeniculum vulgare ‘Purpureum’) forms. Leaf fennel is grown for its decorative, feathery, sweet-tasting leaves. Bulb fennel, like the ‘Orazio’ variety, is grown for its swollen bulbs. In both types, all parts of the plant are edible. The flowers will remind you of fennel’s carrot-family relative, Queen Anne’s lace or wild carrot, and will eventually provide fennel seeds for culinary use. Swallowtail butterflies also use the fennel as a host plant, making the kitchen garden even more beautiful.

Striking Swiss Chard

The highly ornamental Swiss chard comes in shades of yellow, orange, red, pink, and white.

Spinach-like Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris var. cicla) leaves can be harvested when young or mature and eaten raw or cooked. In the garden, the showy stems of ‘Ruby Red’ or ‘Bright Yellow’ or Bright Lights Mix light up the landscape. These relatives of common beets grow best in sunny spots where the soil is somewhat alkaline. Swiss chard tastes sweeter as fall temperatures drop and will continue to ornament your garden and provide culinary ingredients well into late fall. Plants may even overwinter in mild- to warm-winter climates.

Colorful Winter Squash

Striped ‘Delicata’ squash are beautiful as are the deepest orange kabocha squash (far left).

The cucurbit family of plants includes all kinds of squashes, melons, and cucumbers. Most are edible, though a few, like ornamental gourds, are grown mostly for decorative value. All start with large, funnel-shaped blooms, and some yield fruits pretty enough to ornament even the most lavish potager. Among the showier cucurbits is delicata squash (Cucurbito pepo ‘Delicata’), a winter squash that features cylindrical fruits striped in cream, yellow, and green. The skin is thin and the flesh is sweet and especially good baked. Another winter squash for bright color in the garden and on a harvest table are Japanese kabocha squashes. The deepest red ‘Red Kuri’ (C. maxima ‘Red Kuri’) has very sweet flesh and is an excellent winter keeper.

Plant squash in hills—8- to 10-inch tall soil mounds—provide plenty of water, and make sure the plants have enough sunny space, as they tend to sprawl. The vines can also be trained to grow up sturdy supporting structures like trellises or fences.

Flashy Cabbage

Purple cabbages can be very striking in fall gardens! This is also when they taste best.

Some gardeners grow ornamental cabbages and kales purely for fall decorations. But edible cabbage varieties (Brassica oleracea Capitata Group) can be just as lovely. One beauty is ‘Deadon’, a Savoy-type cabbage with brilliant magenta-purple leaves. Another is ‘Red Express’, an early-yielding variety with purple and grey-green leaves. In both varieties, the color deepens as fall weather cools off.

Cabbages like rich soil, full sun, and regular moisture, and benefit from soil amended with a product like Fafard Premium Natural and Organic Compost.

Colorful Okra

If you don’t grow okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) for its tasty pods, you might be tempted to grow it for the flowers alone or the attractive dried winter pods. The blooms and leaves betray okra’s membership in the mallow family (Malvaceae), which is also home to hibiscus and hollyhocks. The main stalks grow somewhat slowly, but the flowers–pale yellow trumpets accented by maroon centers—are worth the wait. Eventually, the edible pods appear. The red pods of ‘Bowling Red‘ are especially pretty. The bold plants reach a whopping 7-8 feet tall.

Okra loves warmth, so plant it when day and nighttime temperatures are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. While not as thirsty as some other edible plants, they appreciate at least one inch of water per week, along with enriched soil.

Scarlet Runner Beans

Hummingbirds, butterflies, and humans are all drawn to the brilliant red flowers of scarlet runner beans (Phaseolus coccineus). The flowers are edible, but leaving them on the fast-growing vines yields tender beans after about 45 days. Picking the beans triggers more blooms and fruits, so harvest often. Trained up teepees, trellises, or other supports located in sunny spots, scarlet runner beans make great focal points for the vegetable garden.

Purple Cauliflower

Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea Botrytis Group) is showing up everywhere these days, from pizza crusts to cauliflower “rice”. Those who really prize the cruciferous vegetable, like it best straight from the garden. That garden can be much more beautiful when adorned with a purple cauliflower variety, like ‘Grafitti’ or ‘Purple of Sicily‘.

Cauliflower is a cool-season species that should be planted in early spring or early fall and receive consistent moisture. Harvest when the heads are 6 to 8 inches wide.

Pink-Flowered Strawberries

Berried Treasure Pink has double-pink flowers and delicious red berries. (Image by Proven Winners)

Strawberry flowers are normally white and winsome, but for a little more color in containers or at the edges of beds, try one of the pink-flowered varieties, like ‘Toscana’, with its deepest magenta flowers, or the double-pale-pink flowered Berred Treasure Pink. Both plants produce pink flowers followed by juicy, red berries. For best results, plant in a sunny spot with well-drained soil and water regularly. Strawberries are also right at home in pots filled with Fafard Natural & Organic Potting Mix. Like many strawberries, the plants reproduce by means of runners.

Variegated Lemon Thyme

Delectable and beautiful, variegated lemon thyme (Thymus x citriodorus ‘Variegata Aurea’) is another plant that works equally well as an edger, or a rock garden or container subject. The tiny fragrant leaves are green edged in creamy yellow and lemon-scented. Clusters of purple tubular flowers appear in July and beckon pollinators. Harvest sprigs of leaves regularly to keep stems from becoming woody. Like other thymes, the variegated variety prefers full sun and well-drained soil.

Divide and Conquer Your Garden Perennials

In the time of Roman Emperor Julius Caesar, “divide and conquer” was a battlefield technique that defeated the Emperor’s enemies and expanded the Roman Empire. You can expand your own empire—or at least your supply of ornamental plants—by dividing mature clumps of perennials. This technique, which does not require much in the way of labor or expertise, will also revitalize established perennials and improve the looks of your garden.

Perennials for Division

If your landscape is home to clump-forming or spreading perennials, like hostas (Hosta spp.), tall phlox (Phlox paniculata spp.), daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.), purple coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea), goldenrods (Solidago spp.), or perennial grasses that have been in place for several years, chances are some of them could stand to be divided. Sometimes the plants cry out for division by producing fewer flowers and appearing a little less vigorous than in prior years. At other times the opposite may be true—vigorous specimens that have outgrown their original spaces attempt garden domination by muscling aside other plants and creating congestion in formerly harmonious planting arrangements.

Dividing is the best way to deal with both situations and spring is a good time to think about doing so. Dividing in spring, when the shoots are emerging, is much easier than lifting and dividing large unwieldy specimens later in the season. Clumps of immature plants are also more forgiving and less impacted by transplant shock.

Why Don’t More People Divide Perennials?

This Hosta has been easily divided with a sharp spade and trowel. The two healthy divisions are ready for planting.

Fear of killing plants is probably the primary reason, but it is unwarranted. The vast majority of perennials are amenable to division. A healthy plant, divided with even a modicum of care, will not die. In fact, the successful division of one moderately large clump is more than likely to result in two, three, or even four thriving new plants.

Dividing plants does not require much in the way of special tools: a sharp spade or garden fork, watering can, a garden knife or sharp trowel for smaller plants and a pair of gloves will do the job. To keep things tidy, consider working on a tarp when working with large clumps.

When it comes to division, water is your friend. If you can time the job so that it takes place a day or two after a rainy day, the ground will be soft and yielding, making it much easier to remove plants. If you can’t arrange that, water the ground around the plant thoroughly a day before you divide it.

Dividing Perennials in the Spring

Once the ground is soft in spring, use the spade or garden fork to dig down and around the clump until you can lift the root ball out of the surrounding earth.

Pulling out fleshy roots of day lilies — The fleshy roots of daylilies can be pulled or cut apart.

Some species, like daylilies, can be divided by simply pulling apart the roots with your fingers. Others, like hostas (Hosta spp.), may require the use of a garden knife, spade, or garden fork. Depending on the size of the clump, you may be able to separate it into two, three, or even more divisions. No matter how many new plants you create, make sure that each division has a healthy supply of roots attached.

Once you have made the divisions, replant one of them in the old planting hole, improving the soil with a quality natural amendment, like Fafard Garden Manure Blend. Distribute the others to new locations around the garden, making sure that the young plants will enjoy the same light and soil conditions as the parent. Amend the soil as the divisions go in and water them regularly as they establish themselves, especially if the weather is dry.

If your garden is so full that you have to hang out the “no vacancy” sign, donate the divisions to family and friends, or local public gardens. If you can’t install the divisions right away, or are giving them to others, be sure to keep them cool and moist until they are ready to go into the ground. Planting them up in pots is another options.

Dividing Perennials in Fall

Pink anemones — Many anemones form big clumps over time that should be divided.

While spring is an excellent time to divide many perennials, early fall is also good. Stress on plants and humans increases as temperatures rise and rain amounts decline. Spring or fall conditions are more comfortable for the specimens being divided and the individuals doing the dividing.

The common wisdom is that fall-blooming plants, like Japanese anemones (Anemone hupehensis var. japonica), asters (Symphyotrichum spp.), and goldenrods (Solidago spp.), should be divided in spring, and spring-blooming plants, like Siberian iris (Iris sibirica) and moss pink (Phlox subulata), should be divided in fall. As with many time-honored “rules”, there are exceptions. I make one for early spring bloomers, like snowdrops, grape hyacinths, and daffodils, dividing them right after they finish flowering, but before the foliage has withered. Since these plants are ephemeral and disappear for their annual siestas in late spring or early summer, it is a good idea to divide them while you can still see them.

Thrifty gardeners have always divided plants, gradually filling up their gardens with no additional investment, other than a little time and energy. Distributing divisions around the landscape also creates repetition, one of the key tenets of garden design.

With the renewed emphasis on sustainability, the age-old practice of multiplying by dividing has gained new currency. It links today’s gardens with the past and the future.

The Busy Gardener’s Survival Kit

Busy Gardener's Survival Kit Featured Image

With the arrival of good weather, most of us who dig in the dirt want to spend as much time as possible doing it. Life sometimes has other ideas. Jobs, families, housekeeping, and annoying little chores like filing tax returns tend to interfere. The only way to confront those realities and make your garden grow is to create a “survival kit” of tools, strategies, and time-saving tricks that maximize the pleasure of gardening, even when time is at a premium.

Plan Your Garden

We all know the thrill of going to the garden center and grabbing gorgeous plants on the spur of the moment, but busy gardeners know that an ounce of planning saves a pound of precious time. Use bad weather days to plan and include everything related to your vision for the year’s garden, including necessary purchases. Plans don’t have to be terribly formal. Save time by making bulleted lists with check-off items. Order whatever you can from trusted online vendors. (Dave’s Garden Mail Order Garden Watchdog is a good tool for checking garden centers out before making purchases.) If you do go to the garden center, make a list so that you can get everything you need in one trip.

Reality Check Your Garden Goals

Garden with vegetables and flowers — You can dream big but don’t bite off more than you can chew.

It’s OK to dream big, as long as you don’t overwhelm yourself with unattainable goals. You can maximize your garden time with good strategies, but you can’t invent time that you do not have. If other responsibilities mean that you will only have a few hours a week in the garden this coming season, figure out what that means. The garden can still be beautiful, but you should probably avoid fussy plants and major projects.

Use Existing Garden Resources

Save time by making your garden beautiful and productive with elements that you have on hand. Use planters you already own, or repurpose sturdy containers instead of buying new ones. If you grow perennials—especially easy-to-propagate specimens like daylilies or hostas—divide them and replant, creating repetition in your planting scheme while saving time and money.

Have the Right Garden Tools and Supplies

Gardening tools, rakes, water jug, and wheelbarrow — Having the right tools clean and on hand saves a lot of time.

In ten minutes, you can get a fair amount of gardening done, but only if the right tools are close at hand. Make sure that you have the best tools for making gardening easy. Keep all the tools you use regularly—trowels, clippers, garden knife, loppers, animal repellant (if necessary), gloves—in a basket, bucket or other suitable waterproof container, preferably with a handle. (One serious gardener I know repurposed a large spackle bucket to house his tools.) Garden clogs or boots should live by the door nearest to the garden. Larger implements, like rakes, hoes, and spades, should also be nearby and easily accessible. The ability to find tools quickly and move them to your garden job site all at once gives you more time to actually do the job at hand.

Lucky gardeners have sheds or garage areas big enough to store a lot of garden paraphernalia. If you have such a dedicated storage area, organize it at the start of the gardening season and keep it orderly to save time and aggravation. If space is a problem, find a corner, preferably with a shelf or two, to store your tool bucket and garden implements. Screen it off, if necessary, for appearance’s sake.

If you are a container gardener, your storage area should also hold the containers you need, bags of potting mix, like (Fafard Ultra Outdoor Planting Mix), plant food, seed packets, and a watering can.

Stop Weeds and Critters Early

Bag of weeds — Regular weeding is a huge time saver! Keep those weeds in check.

Some people love the repetitive nature of weeding and find it soothing, but busy people need ways to limit weeds. Mulching is among the best. Buy, make or gather organic mulch at the beginning of the garden season and apply it to beds and borders.

Damage caused by deer and other animals is the bane of many gardeners’ existence, stealing time and enjoyment. Repellents work well but need frequent re-application. Fences work even better but tend to be expensive for large spaces. Investing in deer-resistant plants (which are usually also resistant to other animals), can save time, plant replacement costs, and frustration. Check the internet for lists of deer-resistant ornamentals, especially perennials that will return every year. If you grow edibles, consider buying crop cages or critter fencing to deter animals. (Click here for one of the best lists of deer-resistant plants!)

Break Up Tasks

Watering plants — Manage the garden bit by bit to keep from becoming overwhelmed.

To maximize garden time and keep yourself from being overwhelmed, divide larger tasks into manageable “bites” that you can take on in the available minutes or hours. Focus on a single area or job. The tangible rewards will make up for the fact that other tasks have yet to be tackled.

Picture Your Garden in Photos

Woman taking photos of pink tulips — Save your garden successes from year to year!

Save planning time and avoid memory lapses by taking pictures of various parts of your garden or container display as the seasons progress. This is especially helpful in fall when you are adding to your spring bulb collection and have forgotten the exact location of existing bulbs. It helps at other times too and makes for better succession planting.

Time may be a luxury, but for many of us, gardening is a necessity. Busy people make the most of that luxury to ensure the necessity.

Plants with Heart-Shaped Leaves and Flowers

Hearts are on sleeves–and everywhere else–in February. Valentine’s Day, arriving at mid-month, is a high point, celebrating love in its many forms. But Valentine’s hearts are not the only ones in the spotlight. The American Heart Association has designated February as “American Heart Month” to raise awareness of heart health nationwide. Clearly, warm hearts rule in mid-winter.

It is a perfect time to give a loved one, or yourself, a heart in the form of house or garden plants that have either heart-shaped leaves or flowers. From the earliest spring violet leaves to the red flowers of tropical anthurium, hearts and horticulture go hand in hand.

Heart-Shaped Plants in the Garden

Brunnera 'Jack Frost' leaves — *Brunnera* ‘Jack Frost’ has cool, silvery heart-shaped leaves.

When the garden awakens in the spring, common blue violets (Viola sororia, USDA Hardiness Zones 3-9) pop out everywhere, but you can add even more charm to your garden with the gift of violet ‘Freckles’. Each little white flower is delicately freckled with purple. Some people regard violets as weeds, but many welcome the green, heart-shaped leaves and winsome blue-purple blooms, especially if you plant extra pretty varieties.

More hearts appear on false forget-me-not (Brunnera macrophylla, Zones 3-8), low-growing plants with heart-shaped leaves that may be variegated with cream. The variety ‘Jack Frost’ has extra bright white leaf coloration and lots of bright blue spring flowers, which resemble common forget-me-nots, as an added attraction.

'Gold Heart' bleeding hearts — ‘Gold Heart’ bleeding heart brightens partially shaded gardens.

Some of the most visible hearts in the spring garden belong to the classic perennial bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis, aka. Dicentra spectabilis, Zones 3-9). The vigorous plants feature pendant, heart-shaped blooms in red, pink, or white, accompanied by fern-like foliage. Rising two to three feet tall with arching stems, mature plants bear scores of flowers in mid to late spring. The variety ‘Gold Heart’ is extra pretty with its golden foliage. Children and adults love the plump little “hearts”. Gardeners with limited sunny space also love the fact that bleeding heart will bloom happily in part shade. It is also important to remember that a bleeding heart will often naturally go dormant in the heat of summer.

For dramatic heart-shaped leaves on a climbing vine, choose Dutchman’s pipe (Aristolochia macrophylla, Zones 4-8), which blooms in late spring and can climb to 30 feet with a 20-foot spread. The large leaves are heart-shaped and form a dense blanket. Greenish flowers are shaped like smokers’ pipes but flare out into vaguely heart-shaped mouths of brown-purple.

'Grandpa Ott's' morning glory — ‘Grandpa Ott’s’ morning glory is neon purple with a rose-red star.

In summer the heart-shaped leaves of purple morning glories and moonflowers (Ipomoea purpurea and Ipomoea alba) shine on vining stems that will clamber up almost any support. Though the trumpet flowers of these old-fashioned favorites provide maximum visual appeal, the leaves cloth supports in blankets of green hearts. They are easily grown from seed and will self-sow. Try the glowing ‘Grandpa Ott’s’ purple morning glory with its purple flowers with rose-red stars.

Many hostas (Hosta hybrids, Zones 3-9) also sport heart-shaped leaves, including the fittingly named ‘Heart and Soul’, with dark greens leaves brightened by lighter green variegation. Little ‘Mighty Mouse’, with cream and green variegated leaves and a rise of just 6 inches, is perfect for those who need to fit a lot of heart into a small space.

Trees and Shrubs with Heart

'Sensation' lilacs — ‘Sensation’ is a bold, large-flowered lilac that will fill your springs with romance for years to come.

Start spring in a heartfelt way with the romance of a classic lilac bush (Syringa vulgaris, Zones 3-7). Fabled for lush panicles of fragrant purple, blue-violet, white, pink or yellow flowers, lilacs also boast good-looking heart-shaped leaves that add to the garden even after the flowers are a fragrant memory. Two good choices are the double-pale-pink-flowered ‘Beauty of Moscow’ and large-flowered ‘Sensation’ with its abundant, fragrant clusters of white-edged purple blooms.

Eastern redbuds (Cercis canadensis, Zones 4-8) are flowering native trees that bear heart-shaped leaves that appear after their colorful pea-like spring flowers. Standard redbuds are excellent medium-sized specimen trees with green leaves, but you can add landscape interest by choosing a modern variety like ‘Forest Pansy’, with purple leaves, toning somewhat to green later in the growing season. The same hearts may flame in yellow and orange come fall. Speaking of flames, Flame Thrower® features spring foliage that turns from reddish-purple to gold to green and has pale-pink spring flowers.

When planting these big-hearted trees, it is important to get them off to a good start. Amend the soil in the planting holes with a nutrient-filled product like Fafard Premium Natural and Organic Compost. (Click here for tree and shrub planting guidelines.)

Heart-Shaped Plants for the House

Hoya hearts have become all the rage in Valentine’s house plant giving. One heart will become a beautiful, flowering specimen in time.

Heart-shaped flowers are not as common as heart-shaped leaves among houseplants, but Anthurium, sometimes known as flamingo flower, boasts hearts in spades. Flowering plants feature leathery heart-shaped spathes in lipstick red, pink or white. The true flowers are on the spadix that protrudes from the center of each “heart.” To keep your anthurium healthy, plant it in a coarse medium, like orchid mix, and provide bright, indirect light. A warm room will suit its tropical nature, as will positioning the pot atop a tray filled with pebbles and water.

What could be more appropriate for the month of hearts than the sweetheart plant (Hoya kerrii)? Also known as ‘heart-leaf hoya”, young plants are often sold in 4-inch pots, with a single, plump green or green and white variegated heart-shaped leaf protruding from each pot. Additional leaves sprout as the hoya grows, eventually developing into a vine laden with hearts. Indoors, supply bright, indirect light and water sparingly. Provide support as the vine begins to spiral upward.

String-of-hearts wreath — String-of-hearts is an easy houseplant that’s also become a popular plant for sentiments of love.

String-of-hearts (Ceropegia woodii) sports hearts to spare. An evergreen succulent vine native to South Africa, string-of-hearts generally feature multiple vining stems laden with small, green, or variegated heart-shaped leaves that sprawl outward from the plant’s base. This trait makes string-of-hearts good subjects for hanging baskets or pedestals. In warm winter climates, they also make excellent ground covers.

In late summer or early fall, the plants also produce pale, reddish purple tubular flowers.

To keep a string of hearts healthy, treat it to a well-drained potting medium, like Fafard Professional Potting Mix, and bright indirect sunlight. Water when the surface of the soil feels dry. The plants tend to go dormant in winter, so reduce water and food during that time.

Hot New Vegetable Varieties for 2021

With the holidays in the rearview mirror and the New Year launched, it is time to check out the new vegetable varieties from seed vendors. Most 2021 catalogs are up now online, and many companies still send paper editions as well. Whether you aim to grow a simple pot of cherry tomatoes on the balcony or an acre of diverse vegetables, the New Year brings an array of hot new choices.

The trends are easy to spot. Tomatoes of all shapes, sizes, and colors are still champion sellers. Color, in the garden and on the plate, is in fashion, with vendors offering old standard vegetables in new, often brilliant hues. Heirloom varieties remain popular, as are compact plants suitable for small spaces and containers. Micro-greens abound. Ease of preparation (think stringless green beans and thin-skinned squash) are also frequent features of this year’s new varieties.

New Tomatoes

‘Bosque Blue Bumblebee' cherry tomatoes (Image thanks to Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds) — ‘Bosque Blue Bumblebee’, is a standard-size cherry variety that starts out blue and ripens to yellow with a blue blush. (Image thanks to Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds)

New tomato varieties are popping up everywhere, promising great taste and adaptability to small spaces–from the prolific ‘Ella Bella’ cherry variety, with sweet, firm red fruits, to ‘Thorburn’s Lemon Blush’, a large, beefsteak type with pink-blushed yellow skin, the catalogs are packed with new tomatoes. Other notable newcomers are the sweet ‘Bosque Blue Bumblebee’, a standard-size cherry variety that starts out blue and ripens to yellow with a blue blush close to the stem, and the heavy-fruiting, sweet, compact Funnyplums varieties that grow beautifully in containers or hanging baskets and come in red, orange, or yellow-fruited forms.

'Ella Bella' cherry tomatoes — Prolific ‘Ella Bella’ cherry tomatoes are sweet, firm, and bright red.

There is nothing like a tomato sandwich at the height of the growing season, and that is only one of the many uses for large slicing tomatoes. New varieties like ‘Marnouar’ and ‘Cubalibre’ bear large (10 to 16 ounce) fruits on vigorous, disease-resistant plants. The tomatoes have an heirloom look, with near-black streaks on dark red skin.

If you aim to make sauce and need a plum tomato variety, try the new ‘Plum Regal’, with broad fleshy fruits and good disease resistance.

New Ornamental Edibles

'Charbell' Swiss chard — Vigorous ‘Charbell’ Swiss chard is delicious and beautiful.

Modern vegetable gardeners want horticultural daily doubles—plants that look good enough to be grown as ornamentals and taste good enough to win over even the pickiest eaters. It doesn’t hurt that those colorful vegetables also look Instagram-ready on the plate.

Many of the hottest new varieties come in unusual colors. ‘Celine’ bush beans are traditional wax beans with a twist– purple pods and yellow interiors. The ‘Snowball’ bell pepper tastes like a traditional green bell pepper but with white skin that matures to ivory. ‘Charbell‘ Swiss chard is a potential garden brightener, with bright magenta stems, good disease resistance, and high performance.

Acorn squash is normally dark green with orange flesh. Squash lovers can change things up with ‘Mashed Potatoes’ acorn squash, which boasts white rind and flesh. Sellers suggest using the squash as a lower-calorie mashed potato alternative.

The color purple continues in fashion, sported this year by a number of new vegetables. ‘Purple Peacock’ broccoli features tasty, small florets atop frilled leaves. ‘Ultra Violet’ mustard bears purple stems with purplish-green leaves. Chinese cabbage lovers wishing for a little more excitement will relish the purple-leafed ‘Merlot’.

Everything Old is New—The Heirloom Craze Continues

'Pippin's Golden Honey Pepper' (Image thanks to Hudson Valley Seed Co.) — ‘Pippin’s Golden Honey Pepper’ (Image thanks to Hudson Valley Seed Co.)

By definition, heirloom varieties are not new, but some have been rediscovered or reintroduced for 2021. The ‘Iroquois Skunk‘ pole bean looks and tastes much better than the name suggests, with mottled, blue-black pods encasing white beans. ‘Pippin’s Golden Honey’ bell pepper is an heirloom that was long grown and used in Philadelphia’s Black community. The lovely purple flowers develop into fruit that morphs from dark purple to yellow and finally to orange as the peppers ripen. The ‘Tall Telephone’ garden pea from the nineteenth century is a traditional variety characterized by heavy production. For something really dramatic—inside and out—try the ‘Silver Edge’ pumpkin, a Mexican heirloom that is streaked green and white on the outside, with tasty peach-colored flesh and large, edible seeds that are white with silver edges.

More Hot New Vegetables

Fruity ‘Aji Chombo’ from Panama (Image by Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds) — The fruity ‘Aji Chombo’ from Panama are also fire-hot. (Image by Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds)

Gardeners who want to turn up the culinary heat have a plethora of choices this year. Hot peppers abound, including ‘Aji Chombo’ from Panama, which features heat comparable to Scotch Bonnet peppers with a fruity flavor to balance that heat. ‘Black Magic’ jalapeno peppers are dark green-black with traditional jalapeno flavor and intensity.

Fafard Premium Natural & Organic Compost Blend pack

Growing from seed is one of the best ways to try out new and different vegetable varieties. If you are starting seeds indoors, use a quality potting mix, like Black Gold Seedling Mix. For direct-sown varieties, clean and prepare planting beds by amending the soil with organic matter. Enriching your garden soil with Fafard Premium Natural and Organic Compost will get your hot new vegetables (as well as old favorites), off to a great start.

Cheerful Red House Plants

December—when the days are short and light is low—calls for maximum winter cheer. Holiday decorations are great spirit-boosters, but to add some long-term uplift, there is nothing like a splash (or two or three) of red. One of the best ways to create those cheerful splashes is to invest in a few house plants with red flowers or leaves.

The choices are many–from the leathery blooms of Anthurium to the textural leaves of the red-veined nerve plant. The best are relatively inexpensive and easy to grow for maximum joy with minimum effort.

Ruby Red Rex Begonias

Begonia T REX™ ‘Ruby Slippers’ leaves (Image thanks to Terra Nova Nurseries) — Begonia T REX™ ‘Ruby Slippers’ has massive leaves and delicate pink blooms. (Image thanks to Terra Nova Nurseries.)

Beloved since Victorian times, rex begonias are hybrids notable for their gaudy, patterned leaves–often with interesting shapes. The extra large-leaved T REX™ ‘Ruby Slippers’ is a super showstopper bred by Terra Nova Nurseries. It is vigorous and has enormous ruby-red leaves punctuated by dark purple centers. ‘Harmony’s Red Robin’ is another eye-catcher with heart-shaped leaves with black centers, wide scarlet bands, and dark brown, crinkled edges. The variety is small—about 8 inches tall at maturity—but packs a big visual punch. ‘Paso Doble’ is as exciting as the Spanish dance for which it is named, with leaves that swirl in like a snail’s shell. Each curled leaf features a bright red band against a medium green background, accented with touches of silver and maroon.

Rex begonias favor bright indoor light. Restrain the urge to water them before the soil is completely dry, but maintain relatively high humidity around the plants. There are three ways to achieve this: Mist plants regularly, set them atop water-filled pebble trays, or invest in a home humidifier. In the winter, the growth cycle slows, so plants require less water.

Bronzy-Red Bromeliads

Neoregelia 'Fireball’ — *Neoregelia* ‘Fireball’ forms attractive clumps of red rosettes that hold water.

Bromeliads are a group of tropical plants with rigid, strap-like, evergreen leaves that surround a central cup. They are longtime house plant favorites and widely available in nurseries and garden centers. Many have pink or red flowers, and some also feature red or red-blushed leaves. Neoregelia ‘Fireball‘ is compact and features narrow red leaves that spring outward from the plant’s center. The red foliage grows brighter with higher light levels, so grow the plant in the brightest indirect light. The plants reach 6 inches high and form broad, pleasing clumps of multiple rosettes. Fill the centers of the rosettes with spring water to keep the plants looking their best. Small purple flowers may bloom from the water-filled cups, particularly in the summertime.

Cryptanthus 'Red Star' in a pot — *Cryptanthus* ‘Red Star’ is very showy and tough. Plant new starts like this in colorful ceramic containers with good drainage.

Another more compact bromeliad, Red Star Earth Star (Cryptanthus ‘Red Star’), features rosettes of red leaves marked with a band of dark purple. The plant, which grows to about 4-6 inches tall, forms spreading clumps of showy stars as it grows. If it flowers, the blooms are inconspicuous and overshadowed by the brilliant foliage.

If you are looking for something much bigger and bolder, choose hybrid Aechmea, ‘Pinot Noir’. The light-lover can reach 3.5 feet tall and wide and features erect leaves in the shade of its namesake wine. Mature rosettes form tall, upright clusters of showy red and yellow flowers.

To make your rosy bromeliads happy, do your best to emulate conditions in their tropical homes. Free-draining soil and pots, as well as bright light, are key, as is high humidity. Mist plants or place containers atop beds of pebbles in water-filled saucers. The central cups characteristic of most bromeliads serve a practical purpose—holding water. When you water the plants, fill the cups. Springwater is recommended.

Scarlet Anthuriums

Anthurium andreanum, sometimes called “flamingo lily”, is a familiar plant at the florist or garden center. The casual observer might just see one showy red “petal”, but what appears to the be petals is actually a modified leaf (called a spathe) that surrounds an ivory or yellow floral column (called a spadix) like a cloak. Each spadex is covered with tiny flowers.

To keep your anthurium’s red spathes and green leaves in top condition keep them well dusted and clean. The plants thrive when given consistent moisture, and bright, indirect sunlight. They grow best in rich soil with lots of organic matter, such as Fafard Ultra Container Mix With Extended Feed. As with other rain forest tropicals, high humidity is a must. Since the plants often form roots close to or even atop the soil’s surface, cover them with an insulating layer of Canadian Sphagnum peat moss.

Claret Nerve Plants

Nerve plant (Fittonia spp.) is a creeping plant that provides a splash of color even in small living spaces. The “nerves” that give rise to the common name are the networks of colorful veins on the leaves and may be silver, pink, or red.

Growing 3 to 6 inches tall, and sprawling out 12 to 18 inches, nerve plant can enliven terrariums or other enclosed container gardens. It works equally well on windowsills with bright, indirect sunlight. Like other tropicals, these little creepers prefer a free-draining potting medium and consistently high humidity. Under the right conditions, the plants may sprout small, yellow, or red flowers in summer, but the leaves are the main attraction.

Less common, but still dramatic, giant nerve plant (Fittonia gigantea) grows to 2 feet, with purple stems, dark green leaves, and a network of red “nerves”.

Carmine Poinsettias

Like anthurium, poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) bear red, leaf-like bracts that resemble petals and surround the smaller true flowers. They are the archetypical Christmas plants, available in a variety of sizes and forms. Under good conditions, the red bracts may persist long beyond the December holiday season. Those conditions include bright sunlight, if possible and available, and watering when the soil surface feels dry. While most people compost or discard the plants once the bracts fade, they can be grown on. (Click here for an overview of how to keep poinsettias and other holiday house plants happy all year long.)

After the flowers fade, cut back the stems, and repot the plants in fresh potting medium. If you want the plant to rebloom in December, you must give the plants 14 hours of absolute darkness every day, beginning in late September. The poinsettia should spend the remaining ten hours of each day in the light. The best way to do this is to establish a routine of putting the plant in a dark closet a few hours before your normal bedtime and retrieving it the next morning when the 14 hours are up.

Growing Fragrant Eucalyptus Indoors

What do American gardeners have in common with the cute and cuddly Australian koala? Both animals and humans appreciate the aromatic leaves of the eucalyptus or gum tree (Eucalyptus spp.). Eucalyptus trees are primarily Australian natives, so Koalas have no trouble finding their tasty leaves that comprise their entire diet. But, Americans, especially those in cold winter climates, have to look farther afield to find eucalyptus leaves and branches for winter decorating, crafts, and herbal remedies.

Some indoor gardeners shorten the trip by growing eucalyptus trees at home in containers. Since the trees are normally fast growers, pruning is a must, but that just means more aromatic material with no need for a trip to the craft store.

About Eucalyptus

Eucalyptus branches can be used fresh or dried.

A member of the myrtle family (Myrtaceae), most eucalyptus species are from Australia, with a few others native to Malaysia and the Philippines. Many lose their leaves during the cold or dry season, but some are evergreen. Depending on which source you consult, there are between 500 and 700 eucalyptus shrub and tree species. The characteristic menthol- or camphor-like fragrance comes from many essential oils present in all parts of the plant. While koalas can digest the leaves, they are toxic to humans and other animals. Eucalyptus has long been used for decoration, woodworking, and medicines.

If you live in a warmer US zone it is nice to know that some eucalyptus trees sport silvery gray bark that peels or exfoliates. The green, gray-green, or blue-green rounded leaves, most commonly used by crafters, are generally the juvenile shoots of the plants. Older leaves are elongated or sickle-shaped but retain the characteristic eucalyptus fragrance. While eucalyptus generally bears small, fragrant white flowers when grown in the ground, it is unusual for container-grown plants to bloom.

Eucalyptus for Indoor Growing

Child watering a potted eucalyptus plant

Nurseries, garden centers, and mail-order vendors carry a number of species that are suitable for container culture. Among them are:

Lemon Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus citriodora (syn. Corymbia citriodora)): As the name suggests, this eucalyptus features leaves with an overlay of lemony or citrusy fragrance. Left to its own devices, lemon eucalyptus may reach 6 to 10 feet tall and 2 to 4 feet wide, but a containerized specimen can be kept much smaller. The bark is smooth and gray, and the evergreen leaves are elongated. It is easily grown from seed and grows very quickly.
White-Leaved Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus albida, Zones 8-10): The young shoots of this shrubby, white-leaved eucalyptus are actually bright grayish blue, eventually growing longer and turning green. It is relatively slow-growing and easy to prune to shape. Outdoor specimens can reach 4 to 9 feet tall if left unpruned.
Cider Gum (Eucalyptus gunnii, Zones 9-11): Native to Tasmania cider gum has several compact varieties good for indoor growing. ‘Silver Drop’ is a compact variety (2 to 3 feet high and 1 to 1.5 feet wide) perfect for pots, with small, silvery leaves. It is also easily grown from seed. Steel Tower is another vigorous gunnii variety of similar dimensions.

Caring for Eucalyptus

Silvery Eucalyptus pots look just at home indoors in winter.

Some garden centers and big box stores carry young eucalyptus trees and shrubs, especially during the growing season. Alternately, you can start eucalyptus from cuttings, which will root readily in water, or from seed. Start seeds, cuttings or young specimens in large pots, because the plants dislike being repotted.

Sun: A full-sun exposure (at least six to eight hours per day) is necessary to keep eucalypts growing to their fullest. It helps to take containers outdoors in summer when the weather is warm. During the cold months, position eucalyptus in the sunniest available space, preferably near a south-facing window. Turn plants to keep them growing evenly if light is one-sided.

Fafard Ultra Container Mix with Extended Feed and RESiLIENCE pack

Soil and Fertilizer: Plant in large, fast-draining pots filled with well-drained soil, and fertilize regularly with all-purpose plant food. It helps to give them a leg up with an enriched potting mix, like Fafard Ultra Container Mix With Extended Feed.

Water: Water regularly when the top few inches of soil feel dry. Reduce watering significantly when you bring pots indoors during winter.

Pruning: To keep growth in check, promote fullness, and ensure an ongoing supply of young branches, the most important thing you can do is pinch off older growth and prune and shape the plant regularly.

Drying Eucalyptus

Dried Eucalyptus wreath — Dried Eucalyptus makes long-lasting dried wreaths.

The most common way to preserve eucalyptus is by drying—hanging branches upside down in bunches, or spreading them on a screen placed in a cool, dry location.

For applications like wreaths, where a more natural look is desirable, it is best to treat stems with glycerin to keep them more pliable and long-lasting. Cut fresh, 12-inch stems, and crush 2 inches at the base of the cuts. Place the branches in jars filled with two parts water to one part glycerin (heat water to 180°F, add glycerin, stir well, and let cool). Allow the branches to cure in the solution for two to six weeks. Refresh the solution as needed within this time.

Using Eucalyptus

Eucalyptus in a bedroom — A little dried Eucalyptus will add soothing fragrance to any room.

Eucalyptus oil should never be taken internally or rubbed directly on the skin, but many books and online resources supply directions for making infusions, ointments, and other aromatic remedies. Insect pests don’t care for the scent of eucalyptus, especially lemon eucalyptus, so it makes a good repellent when tucked into sachets or included in potpourri.

Most of us will only experience koalas via nature shows or zoos, but we can channel their sunny Australian homeland by growing beautiful and fragrant eucalyptus indoors.

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