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BLUEBERRIES OR BUST by Elisabeth Ginsburg

BLUEBERRIES OR BUST

Blueberries have so many virtues. The North American native shrubs are attractive enough to stand on their own as garden ornamentals. The sweet fruits are tasty eaten out of hand and amenable to culinary applications from appetizers to shortcakes. And while you are eating those beautiful blue fruits, you are also getting helpful amounts of vitamins C and K, as well as antioxidants. What’s not to love? What’s not to grow? The only hard part is choosing the blueberry type and variety, and that may depend at least partly on where you live. Armed with a little knowledge, you can be singing the blues (berries) as early as this summer.

Northern Blues

If you live in USDA zones 3-7, you can choose from varieties of Northern Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), shrubs that grow high, wide and handsome, reaching five to nine feet tall, with some newer varieties remaining more compact. The shrubs produce large, sweet berries. Popular varieties include ‘Earliblue’, which, true to its name, fruits in June ahead of the July peak production season. Dating back to 1916, the ‘Jersey’ blueberry bears fruit later—generally in late July or August.

Southern Sweetness

Southerners can opt for either the hybrid Southern Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum x Vaccinium darrowii) or the aptly named Rabbiteye (Vaccinium ashei). Hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-10 and needing relatively few hours of cold winter weather to set fruit, Southern Highbush blueberries may grow between six and eight feet tall. Breeding programs have produced many varieties, some of which are better for the commercial market, while others

thrive in home garden settings. ‘Jewel’ produces large fruit in the middle of the summer blueberry season, while ‘Magnus’ is an early fruiting variety with large berries.

Rabbiteye blueberries are large at six to 15 feet, with a spreading habit. Native to the American southeast, they are the most heat and drought tolerant of all the blueberries The evocative name comes from the pinky color of the unripe berries, which inspired comparisons to the eyes of albino rabbits. Varieties include ‘Climax’, with early-ripening, large fruits and ‘Titan’, known for producing large fruit at mid-season.

Wild and Tasty

Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) creep along the ground in their native areas of the northern United States and Canada (USDA zones 2-6). These are the true “wild” blueberries—with small, extremely sweet fruit. Breeders crossed the cold tolerant lowbush blueberry with the northern highbush type to produce the Half-High blueberry bush, which thrives in USDA zones 3-7. These hybrids feature larger berries than the lowbush types and excellent cold tolerance. Look for plants with northerly names like ‘Polaris’ and ‘Northland’.

Ornamental Edibles

Blueberries are delicious and worth growing even if you never really look at the plants. However, the shrubs have considerable ornamental value. Starting in spring, the bushes bear the pinkish-white, bell-shaped flowers that are characteristic of other plants in the Ericaceae family, like pieris and heathers. After commanding the full attention of early spring pollinators, the flowers give way to the developing fruits. By fall, the leaves turn a brilliant red, making the shrubs stand out among other stars of the autumn garden. Because blueberries offer three seasons of interest, some gardeners even use them en masse as flowering/fruiting hedges.

Good Things in Small Packages

Plant breeders are very attuned to the needs of small-space gardeners, whether those spaces are patios, driveways, or containers. If you fit that category, you too can have your fill of the blue fruits.

At 24 inches tall and 20 inches wide, little ‘Top Hat’ is a cross between the Northern Highbush blueberry and the lowbush blueberry. With a mounding habit, it is perfect for a medium to large container and will produce large fruits. Another intriguing small hybrid variety is ‘Pink Lemonade’, which has rosy pink fruits with exceptionally an exceptionally sweet blueberry taste. It is hardy in USDA Zones 4-8 and can grow up to four feet tall, perfect for a large container.

Get Growing

Blueberries overall are undemanding plants but prefer well-drained soil on the acid side of the pH scale. For good soil chemistry, amend the planting soil with an organic product like Fafard® Premium Natural and Organic Compost. Most types are self-fertile, meaning that the shrubs will produce fruit without another compatible blueberry bush nearby. However, to increase fruiting, buy a second, compatible blueberry. Rabbit eye varieties are the exception to the self-fertile rule and will not set fruit without a companion plant. If you plan to purchase one, make sure to check with the vendor about which compatible varieties are available.

Regular moisture is a must, especially when young shrubs are establishing their root systems, and sunshine is essential.

Get a Net

One last thing to consider…If you want to enjoy the fruits of your labors, consider investing in some fine mesh netting to cover your blueberries when the fruit begins to ripen. In my garden the birds eyeball the blueberry bush from the time it begins to flower, waiting impatiently for the fruit. Without netting they would eat it all.

Of course, attracting birds to the garden is a distinct benefit even if they devour every last blue morsel. In that situation, it pays to remember that a blueberry bush is worth having for its ornamental value alone.

About Elisabeth Ginsburg


Born into a gardening family, Elisabeth Ginsburg grew her first plants as a young child. Her hands-on experiences range from container gardening on a Missouri balcony to mixed borders in the New Jersey suburbs and vacation gardening in Central New York State. She has studied horticulture at the New York Botanical Garden and elsewhere and has also written about gardens, landscape history and ecology for years in traditional and online publications including The New York Times Sunday “Cuttings” column, the Times Regional Weeklies, Horticulture, Garden Design, Flower & Garden, The Christian Science Monitor and many others. Her “Gardener’s Apprentice” weekly column appears in papers belonging to the Worrall chain of suburban northern and central New Jersey weekly newspapers and online at http://www.gardenersapprentice.com. She and her feline “garden supervisors” live in northern New Jersey.

Cultivating Diversity with Wildlife Gardening

Naturalistic garden sm
Low dense groundcovers, meadow-like perennial plantings, shrubby thickets, trees large and small, and other vegetation types provide a patchwork of habitats for wildlife. (image by Jessie Keith)

Want to invite more of nature into your garden?  Then cultivate diversity —from the ground up.  Even a small garden can feed, shelter, and house an abundance of animals and insects (and plants!).  And it all starts with the soil.

The key to creating a wildlife-friendly yard is to grow lots of plants and plant species —especially natives.  This is mostly about food: nectar, pollen, fruits, nuts, and leaves.  More plant diversity means more dietary options and niches, supporting more furry and feathered (and warty and creeping) things.  A diversely planted garden is alive with feeding activity.  Bumblebees mob the pollen-rich blooms of blueberries and shooting-stars (as assassin bugs lie in wait).  Butterflies flutter about the sweetly scented flower-heads of spice viburnums and meadow rues.  Caterpillars and other insect larvae browse the foliage of their favored (and —in some cases—exclusive) hosts.  And at the upper end of the food chain, birds, amphibians, mammals, and other omnivores gobble down fruits, nuts, and insects (while hummingbirds buzz in to sip from the tubular, brightly hued, nectar-rich flowers of penstemons and salvias).  Plant more species (especially natives), and they will come – and eat.

More plants also mean more places for your local wildlife to hang out.  Low dense groundcovers, meadow-like perennial plantings, shrubby thickets, trees large and small, and other vegetation types provide a patchwork of habitats where animals and insects can forage, nest, shelter, advertise for mates, and do all that other wild stuff.  Accessorize with some bird feeders, bird (or bat or bee) houses, toad abodes, bird baths, butterfly puddles, and other wildlife-appropriate man-made features, and you’ll have a place for just about every critter in the hood.

Bee on Ageratum houstonianum
Planting for pollinators with favorite bee and butterfly blooms is one simple way to plant for wildlife. (image by Jessie Keith)

If the thought of all that up-close, wildlife-friendly habitat gives you (and your neighbors) a touch of the creepy-crawlies —then keep it at a comfortable distance.  Border it with some hardscape and lawn where the children and dogs (rather than the deer and the garter snake) can play.  Provide some observation areas from which you can safely monitor the children and the wildlife.  But consider leaving some lawn-free corridors to connect your plantings with those of your neighbors (hint, hint).  Together, you can form one contiguous neighborhood mega-wildlife-garden.

And put away the pesticides.  No matter that your spray-can trigger-finger instinctually starts twitching at the very mention of insect-hosting plants.  You’ll doubtless find that insect damage is far less noticeable and less troubling in your wildlife planting than in other, more pampered areas of your yard.  More diversity means less likelihood of one critter spiraling out of control.  So protect that diversity by not spraying it with poison (although in some areas a deer fence might be in order).

As with all gardens, the best way to proceed is from the ground up.  And I do mean ground – as in good old dirt (a.k.a. soil), the base layer of terrestrial life.  For it is life in the underground (comprising mind-numbingly large numbers of bacteria, protozoa, fungi, and other soil microbes), which supports life up in the sunlight, including the plants that populate our gardens.  The healthier the soil is, the greater the possibilities for our gardens – and for their human and non-human inhabitants.

So before you plant anything, check with the soil.  Is it heavy clay or porous sand?  Does it have a nice topsoil layer or none?  Is it in the sun or the shade?  If possible, send a soil sample off to your state’s horticultural extension service for analysis and recommendations (most states offer soil testing for a relatively modest fee).  And in most cases, add organic matter such as Fafard® Premium Organic Compost. This top-quality compost is at the top of the menu for most soil microbes.

To convert a whole swath of lawn to a wildlife perennial planting, use the technique known as sheet mulching.  Blanket the erstwhile lawn with a thick layer of wet newspaper or cardboard, and cover the paper with Fafard Premium Organic Compost (1 cubic foot per square yard) and several inches of “soft”, seed-free organic material (such as leaves or straw).  Add more compost and top with 3 or 4 inches of wood chips.  Allow your mulch parfait to decay for a few months before planting into it, or plant immediately by creating topsoil-filled hollows in the bark layer.  Keep the border edged and weeded while your new planting establishes – and then watch diversity happen.

Scarlet beebalm, purple coneflower and orange butterfly weed
Natives like scarlet beebalm, purple coneflower and orange butterfly weed are sure to draw lots of wildlife pollinators. (image by Jessie Keith)