Articles

Growing Raspberries and Blackberries

Wild blackberries
Freshly picked wild blackberries. (Image by Loadmaster)

Few summer treats can compare to a bowl of sweet fresh-picked raspberries or blackberries. Borne on the brambly stems (or “canes”) of shrubs in the genus Rubus, these toothsome morsels are about as delectable as hardy fruits get. And thanks to the efforts of modern breeders, growing raspberries and blackberries is easier than ever. There’s a brambly berry for just about every culinary garden!

Black raspberries (Rubus occidentalis)
Black raspberries (Rubus occidentalis) ready for the picking. (image care of USDA, ARS)

What are Brambles?

Botanically speaking, each raspberry or blackberry is in fact a cluster (or “aggregate”) of fused, fleshy seed capsules, individually known as drupelets. The drupelets develop on the domed centers of the white, often inconspicuous, bee-pollinated flowers.

Bramble berries come in several colors including red, orange, yellow, purple, and black, with numerous hybrids between the variously colored types. Most brambles are hardy into colder regions of the United States (USDA Hardiness Zone 5 or so), but some are best suited for milder climes.

Fortunately, perhaps the hardiest of the lot are the red raspberries, widely regarded as the cream of the bramble crop. All derive from Rubus idaeus, a prickly, suckering shrub native to much of the temperate Northern Hemisphere. Hundreds of selections and hybrids of the species are in cultivation, each selected for the flavor, abundance, and timing of its fruits.

Standard forms of red raspberry flower and fruit on the growth of the previous year, ripening their fruits in early summer. So-called everbearing varieties go them one crop better by also producing blooms and berries in late summer on the current season’s growth (known as “primocanes”). Everbearing raspberries can be tip-pruned in early spring for two crops, or sheared close to the ground for a single large late-season harvest.

Colorful Rubus berries
A colorful mix of Rubus berries. (image care of USDA, ARS)

Growing Red Raspberries

Red raspberry plants thrive in sun and fertile humus-rich soil (amend or mulch lean or heavy soil with a good compost such as Fafard Premium Natural & Organic Compost). Plant the canes in widely spaced rows (10 feet or so apart), removing suckers that wander more than a couple feet from the rows’ centers.

Recommended summer-fruiting varieties include ‘Killarney’, ‘Nova’ (which fruits a bit later than ‘Killarney’), and ‘Encore’ (which ripens later still). Everbearing red raspberries include ’Autumn Bliss’ and ‘Heritage’ (the latter bearing its fall crop too late for areas with short growing seasons). Yellow-fruited cultivars of Rubus idaeus include ‘Anne’ and ‘Fallgold’ (both everbearing).

Growing Black Raspberries

The eastern U.S. native Rubus occidentalis – commonly known as black raspberry – has sired several cultivars that make excellent choices for cold-climate gardens. The aromatic, dome-shaped berries mature to purple-black in late spring or early summer, depending on the variety. Look for the large-fruited, midseason-bearing ‘Jewel’, and the relatively early-fruiting ‘Haut’.

Black raspberries have similar soil and sun requirements to those of their red kin. Plant them (as well as blackberries and purple raspberries) at 4-foot intervals in rows spaced 8 to 12 feet apart. Prune the tips of black raspberry (and blackberry) primocanes in spring as soon as they reach full height, and remove all second-year canes after they fruit.

Red raspberries
Sweet, red raspberries are a real summer treat!

Growing Blackberries

Least hardy of the brambles are the group known as blackberries, a complex swarm of cultivars deriving from a hodgepodge of species. Their large, relatively elongated fruits ripen as the black raspberry season comes to a close. Relatively few blackberry cultivars are reliably hardy north of USDA Zone 6, and many hit their stride only in mild-winter areas such as the Southeast and Pacific Northwest. Among the best of the hardiest cultivars are ‘Darrow’ and ‘Illini Hardy’, which succeed into USDA Zone 5.

Gardeners in warmer districts can choose from a broad array of blackberries, including numerous thornless, semi-erect cultivars developed by the University of Arkansas and other breeding programs.

Crosses between red raspberries and black raspberries have yielded yet another tribe of brambles: purple raspberries. Intermediate in color, size, and hardiness between the two parent types, this group is best known by the cultivar ‘Brandywine’, whose large, flavorful, tart fruits come later than those of most other raspberries. Other notable cultivars include ‘Royalty’ and ‘Success’.

The various colors and seasons of bloom of modern raspberry and blackberry varieties offer a spectrum of delicious possibilities for bramble fanciers. Continuous spring-to fall harvest of berries is there for the growing, in a rainbow of colors. It’s a great time to be a bramblephile.

Blackberries
Thornless blackberries are easier to harvest!

Small-Space Gardening

Profusio Zinnias and Swiss chard
Compact Profusion Zinnias and Swiss chard are great choices for smaller gardens with less space.

Small-space gardening is the triumph of inspiration over limitation. Space is the limitation. Inspiration, which is free and universally available, trumps space limitation every time.

Fafard Ultra Container with Extended Feed RESILIENCE pack
Fafard Ultra Container with Extended Feed is a great choice for small space container gardening.

You can plant a garden in an old washtub, grow it up a trellis or cultivate intensively in a two by two-foot raised bed. Small-scale landscapes can be housed in boxes perched on porch railings, bags or planters hanging from walls, or grow bags on asphalt driveways. They are perfect for the minuscule ribbons of earth surrounding a townhouse. Combine any small site with appropriately scaled plants, a little effort and quality soil like Fafard ® Ultra Container Mix With Resilience™ and a garden is born.

Choices, Choices

Getting down to the business of small space gardening requires a few choices. What do you most want to grow? If you have sunny space—six hours of direct sunlight per day—you can raise an array of edible crops, not to mention ornamentals and herbs. You can even mix those categories as long as you group plants with similar cultural needs. Light shade limits choices a bit but does not preclude any kind of small-scale gardening. Bear in mind the small-space gardening mantra—“no ground—no problem.” Find a container that will hold enough soil to grow your choice of plants and your garden is on its way.

Space limitation also means choosing plants that give “bang for the buck”—high-yielding fruits and vegetables, and/or flowering varieties that rebloom regularly during the growing season. Colorful or variegated foliage helps maintain visual interest between flushes of flowers.

Pick the Right Edibles

Cherry tomatoes
Cherry tomatoes—either standard size or dwarf–are a flavorful option for tomato lovers on a space budget.

Many popular vegetable and fruit varieties are available in compact or even dwarf sizes. Cherry tomatoes—either standard size or dwarf–are a flavorful option for tomato lovers on a space budget. Stake or trellis them for space-saving vertical culture. Many zucchini and other squashes come in tidy, compact bush forms. Bush beans, sometimes known as “string beans”, also work well in small gardens.

Fruit lovers with large containers or small plots can grow dwarf blueberry varieties like ‘Top Hat’, which rises to only 24 inches tall and produces several pounds of blueberries per season at maturity. Strawberries will thrive in raised beds or pocketed strawberry jars. Dwarf apple, pear, and plum trees are well suited to large pots or can be trained (espaliered) to grow against walls or other supports.

Coreopsis Li'l Bang™ 'Daybreak'
Coreopsis Li’l Bang™ ‘Daybreak’ is a wonderful summer perennial for small spaces. (image care of Skagit Gardens)

Vest Pocket Blooms

Getting lots of flowers from a small space used to mean buying annuals every year. You can still go the annual route with free-flowering compact forms such as the many-colored zinnias in the Profusion series. An array of modern, smaller perennials will do the same job, and save labor by returning from year to year. Try a reblooming daylily (Hemerocallis), like little ‘Black-Eyed Stella’, which is yellow with a contrasting central “eye” and a maximum height of 12 inches. Another good perennial choice is one of the small-scale tickseeds (Coreopsis), like those in the bright-colored Li’l Bang series. Vertical growers like annual morning glory and perennial clematis use little ground or container space as they clamber up trellises or tuteurs.

Miniature Roses

Miniature roses, at 12 to 24 inches tall, feature all the traits of their larger relatives, minus the gangly stature. Fragrant, apricot-pink ‘Barbara Mandrell’ for example, boasts the high-centered flowers typical of hybrid teas. Miniatures are also available in the climbing form, which is handy for those with more vertical than horizontal space.

Made for Partial Shade

Container gardening is a great option for gardeners with little space or time.
Container gardening is a great option for gardeners with little space or time.

Partial shade does not have to mean dashed hopes for space-conscious gardeners. Lovers of baby greens can grow mesclun in spaces with dappled shade and only about two hours of sun per day. Pots of parsley or oregano will be fine with only a few hours of sunshine. Try annual wishbone flower (Torenia fournieri) for purple or cream flowers in small borders, window boxes or containers. It thrives in shade and grows only six to 12 inches tall and wide. For foliage color, look for variegated-leaf perennials, like blue and cream Hosta ‘Frosted Mouse Ears’, which catches the eye and grows only six inches tall and 12 inches wide.

Succeed With Succession Planting

Fafard Premium Natural & Organic Compost Blend pack
Top dress small plots with Fafard Premium Natural and Organic Compost.

Get maximum growth out of small, sunny spaces by using succession planting. When spring bulb-grown plants, like tulips and daffodils, fade seed in annuals, such as nasturtiums, cosmos, or compact zinnias, in the same spaces. When cool weather returns, incorporate cool-season annuals for fall, like nemesia, pansies, or diascia.

Troubleshooting

Intensive cultivation of small spaces can lead to nutrient depletion. Top dress small plots with amendments like Fafard Premium Natural and Organic Compost, which can also be mixed into container medium. Small spaces—especially containers and window boxes—tend to dry out quickly, so check for dryness and make sure to water every day in hot weather.

Garden Anecdotes: Truth or Tales?

Rosa 'Wekcobeju' (CINCO DE MAYO™)
Are coffee grounds really beneficial to rose growing? Maybe! Rosa ‘Wekcobeju’ (CINCO DE MAYO™ shown)

There are many garden truths and tales. Growing up, my family subjected me to lots of gardening anecdotes that I simply accepted. My grandfather feverishly sprayed his veggies with odd homemade concoctions, my grandmother insisted that amending her roses with coffee remnants was beneficial, and my aunt claimed that planting marigolds among veggies deterred harmful pests. These are a few of many.
I question whether these and comparable anecdotes have any elements of truth. Are such practices based in truth, or are they simply products of tradition or hearsay? To tackle this matter, I turned to research to pick out truths from garden practice lore.

Creative Pest Deterrents

Bars of soap hanging from trees, carnivore urine sprinkled in beds, pepper spray applied to tulips, and dishes of beer scattered among hostas. These home remedies are weird, to say the least, but do they work?
Folksy remedies to deter deer are some of the most popular, because deer are garden destructors. Soap, sachets of human hair, pepper sprays and urine concoctions are favorites, because deer dislike disagreeable scents and flavors, but effectiveness has more to do with consistent density of coverage.

Capsicum annuum hot peppers
Sprays made from hot peppers have been known to ward off pests, for a while.

Such remedies create a fleeting veil of protection over garden deer treats. For example, scented bars of soap hanging in apple trees are not enough to keep deer from plucking apples, it’s time consuming to keep ornamentals swathed with pepper sprays (though they work), and human hair is a red herring. One method, however has been shown to work. Predator odors can linger, and studies show they ward off prey, such as deer, mountain goats and beavers. So, carnivore urine, though not cheap, works.
Still, the best course of action is to “simply” plant plants that deer dislike—though they’ll eat practically everything in a lean winter. Dogs in the yard work well too.
Snails and slugs are real pests, and beer is the favorite home remedy for their demise, which is great because it works. Slugs love beer’s hoppy, sweetness, but are pickled by its ethyl alcohol. One evening try sinking a half-filled can in the ground near a troubled spot, and you’ll have marinated escargot by morning.
Some tout homemade pesticide concoctions with ingredients like tobacco juice, dish soap, or medications. Stay away from such motley mixes. Certain ingredients may be helpful; soap acts as a surfactant and smothers insects on contact, and nicotine (actually a nasty neurotoxin) is one of the oldest pesticides, but spraying meds on plants, particularly veggies, could be dangerous as well as ridiculously expensive.

Companions or Charlatans?

Marigolds by Jessie Keith
Marigolds can actually ward off some garden pests down below in the soil.

There is a lot written about companion planting, and certainly some plants offer benefits to their neighbors, nitrogen fixing legumes for instance, but can one plant actually deter pests from another?
The answer is, sometimes. Herbivorous insects can pick up the volatile compounds from their host plants from great distances, and a 2005 study conducted in the UK showed that insects can find their host plants when hidden amongst other undesirable plants. This should not be surprising. To survive, they must be able to pick that needle of a plant out of a haystack of others. So, sadly marigolds won’t protect your cabbages from loopers.
Marigolds have been shown to repel root knot nematodes, a real problem with tomatoes, so they do provide natural good down below. (Read more about the power of marigolds in the garden here.)

Odd Amendments

Fafard Garden Manure Blend packThe raised probably raised eyebrows when Native Americans taught them to plant a fish with their corn crops, but we now know that these fishies acted as quality fertilizer (think fish emulsion). Other homemade amendments might offer some help, too.
Take my grandmother’s favorite amendment for roses, tea and coffee. Both are slightly acidic and break down quickly, so essentially they act as quick compost at a pH suitable for roses. So long as its organic, disease or heavy metal-free, it’s probably going to eventually adding some benefit.
But, at the end of the day it pays to amend with proven garden amendments shown to provide sound organic matter and encourage the growth beneficial microorganisms. Fafard’s  Garden Manure Blend, Natural & Organic Compost and Canadian Sphagum Peat Moss are all proven amendments that will make your garden plants shine.
With age I’ve learned to approach anecdotal garden solutions with a healthy dose of scrutiny. But, I also refrain from total disbelief in their power. Even the oddest sounding remedies might do some good. At the end of the day, it’s best to stick with tried-and-true methods and garden amendments and additives proven to work.